HC3 wrote:Thanks Tim and Cusser,
It looks like HNBR O-rings come in black or green.
They may not be exactly the same (e.g. different durometer) https://www.globaloring.com/oring-colors/
I guess I'll assume the QD fittings for R134a will be OK.
It makes sense after all this time at least the R134a fittings should have compatible O-rings.
I might try putting some teflon tape on the threads as a belt and suspenders approach.
When was the last time you saw Teflon tape on a vehicle AC fitting? I think you're making this a bigger deal than it really is.
HC3 wrote:I might try putting some teflon tape on the threads as a belt and suspenders approach.
Teflon tape is used to help seal tapered pipe threads. It won't help your O-ring connection to seal, but "might" help you unscrew the fitting in the future.
The teflon tape isn't near the O-ring just on the adapter threads. The idea is if R134a leaks past the O-ring it might be stopped by the teflon tape.
I'm well aware how the tape works on NPT threads.
HC3 wrote:The teflon tape isn't near the O-ring just on the adapter threads. The idea is if R134a leaks past the O-ring it might be stopped by the teflon tape.
Is there better Schrader valve and cap adapter assemblies out there I should get before doing the evac. and charge?
The Schrader valves look to be the standard type. The caps are plastic with a black O-ring or seal inside.
It seems that brass caps might be better. Thoughts? Thanks.
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They came that way - I had the same question.
I'll take a closer look to make sure the holes don't go thru.
I think those "holes" are to get a more constant wall thickness for the center part of the cap that has the male threads that thread into the top of the fitting.
It helps with the molding process.
Holes don't go through (thru) , it seems they are there for the reason I mention.
Still, should I look at finding better converters that have bigger Schrader valves and/or brass caps?
Thanks.
