Magnetic clutch not engaging in 2009 Altima

[arty4444]

My repair is in progress. After many calls I found a decent shop that would do clutch only ($200). It took a while to find a clutch kit ($65) but it is ordered and due in this week so I'm not "cool" yet. If I hadn't found a mechanic I would have tried it myself to save way over $1000 for new compressor and all that involves. I saw a YouTube video (don't have link) where guy did it without "special tools" but did have snap ring pliers. Pointers were that you can loosen compressor mounting bolts and move it around for access without removing hoses. He took the first outermost center bolt off with a quick hammer blow to the end of his ratchet wrench and used a rubber or wood mallet (instead of hub puller) none too gently to knock the pressed hub off. On reassemble new pulley was pressed back in by tapping a socket the right size to fit the bearing. The snap rings were a little tuff to get in but he used the pliers to get them started and a punch to seat them. Search for a video of someone doing this.

[jm88]

Where did you find the kit? That is interesting all those steps you mentioned. The video I saw looked pretty easy once the bolt was off. Looked like everything just slides out once the snap ring is out. I better look a little deeper into this.

[arty4444]

I'm familiar with the process on my 2001 Dodge Ram Van and realize it could be very different on other vehicle's.
I eventually found mine on eBay but it wasn't there when I first started looking. Try them, Amazon, Walmart (a lot of auto stuff online, Rock Auto, all your local parts stores- there is no guarantee anybody even makes one for your vehicle.

[bohica2xo]

Jim

Clutch coils fail infrequently. What does fail with regularity is the clutch gap.

Since you have already had issues getting a clean electrical test, why not check the gap?

With the engine running & system calling for cooling, tap the drive plate on the clutch - if it pulls in the gap is too big.

Resetting the gap is a simple job that can usually be done in 15 minutes by removing a shim. No need to open the system.

.

[jm88]

Hey thanks for that advice. I probably have to pull the wheel out to do that because I can't get my hand down there from the top while the engine is running without losing a hand! But I don't think I had issues getting a clean electrical test. The first time i was fumbling around but the last time I inserted a paper clip into the connector so I got a good steady reading.

Anyways, I am almost tempted to just replace the compressor instead of the clutch. They are only a couple hundred or so and it looks A LOT easier than removing the clutch. Then just have a shop recover and refill it. I don't know, we'll see.

[bohica2xo]

Uh, yeah do NOT use your hand for this.

It does not take much force. A 1/2" round wood dowel will do it. From the top of the engine bay. Just defecting the plate .015 will make the magnet grab it.

[jm88]

So if I do this, and it does engage, will that mean that the coil is good and the gap is too big? Where are these shims?

Uh, yeah do NOT use your hand for this.

It does not take much force. A 1/2" round wood dowel will do it. From the top of the engine bay. Just defecting the plate .015 will make the magnet grab it.

[arty4444]

Admittedly not familiar with auto mechanics I still suggest that IF you are measuring resistance through the otherwise disconnected coil and finding basically on open circuit (infinite ohms) your clutch will not engage no matter what the gap. But by all means look into the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley which is where any shims go. You can measure that gap for correctness also.
I found it wasn't just the cost of a compressor over a clutch but other stuff has to be replaced with the compressor and the labor cost goes way up. In my case $265 total for just clutch job and $1500 for compressor job.

[bohica2xo]

So if I do this, and it does engage, will that mean that the coil is good and the gap is too big? Where are these shims?

The shims are behind the clutch plate. The nut in the center of the clutch on the end of the compressor shaft holds the plate on. The shims were installed at the factory to set the clutch gap, and can be removed for wear adjustment.

On low mount FWD cars sometimes you need to move the inner fender to do the job, but it is not a big deal.

Out here in the desert, the plate will usually come out with your fingers. Here is a rebuild thread with a nasty, rusty one coming apart - all it takes is a cheap tool:

http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview. ... adid=21972

The shims are located on the compressor shaft. Set the gap as tight as possible without drag. It only gets bigger with use.