Hi, I have a 2005 Toyota Prius. The compressor was bad, and I have a working compressor off my parts Prius. I have a new evaporator that has the dicenssant integrated. The Prius has the TV valve in the cabin. My old compressor and evaporator, had very little oil that I could drain. My working compressor had 10 ML. The system holds 100 ML. I do not know how much oil is still in my condenser. I don't know how much oil I can get from the condenser, by blowing shop air through it.
Where and how much new oil should I put into the system? I'm concerned because the compressor is DC operated. Usually I cycle the compressor by hand to avoid a hydro lock. And ideas? Thanks in advance
2005 Prius where to put the AC oil?
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Re: 2005 Prius where to put the AC oil?
Here are the specifications that I have for your Prius: 17 ounces net weight (482 gr) of R-134a, and 4.0 fluid ounces (118 ml) of Hybrid Oil, both very small amounts. If you have an under-hood decal with specs that differ, the decal takes precedence.
The only reliable way to remove all the old oil is to solvent-flush the components or replace them. The compressor, lines with mufflers, and the integrated R/D desiccant element can't be flushed. Any lines with mufflers and the R/D element must be replaced.
Consider replacing the parallel-flow condenser because it's nearly impossible to flush and remove all the oil and solvent. In theory, the evaporator can be flushed in place as long as you remove the TXV, but consider replacing the evaporator as well for the same reasons.
For your replacement compressor, pour out as much oil as you can from the two ports (usually marked S and D), letting it set for a couple of hours over a drain pan, alternating the ports approximately at the bottom. Sometimes, a compressor will have a drain plug. If yours has one, simply remove the plug and drain the oil. Then slowly add back all 4 ounces of fresh oil into the compressor, half into each port. Or turn the drain hole up, pour in the oil, and reinstall the plug—whichever applies.
In this application, there's no practical way that I know of to rotate the compressor's mainshaft before the first system start-up.
The only reliable way to remove all the old oil is to solvent-flush the components or replace them. The compressor, lines with mufflers, and the integrated R/D desiccant element can't be flushed. Any lines with mufflers and the R/D element must be replaced.
Consider replacing the parallel-flow condenser because it's nearly impossible to flush and remove all the oil and solvent. In theory, the evaporator can be flushed in place as long as you remove the TXV, but consider replacing the evaporator as well for the same reasons.
For your replacement compressor, pour out as much oil as you can from the two ports (usually marked S and D), letting it set for a couple of hours over a drain pan, alternating the ports approximately at the bottom. Sometimes, a compressor will have a drain plug. If yours has one, simply remove the plug and drain the oil. Then slowly add back all 4 ounces of fresh oil into the compressor, half into each port. Or turn the drain hole up, pour in the oil, and reinstall the plug—whichever applies.
In this application, there's no practical way that I know of to rotate the compressor's mainshaft before the first system start-up.
Member – MACS (Mobile Air Climate Systems Association)
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