Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

I installed a new shaft seal and complete compressor rebuild kit on a HR6 in 2014 but it leaked oil every winter.

I wasn't sure but the first one was indeed a double lip style and one member stated that he has never had a double lip seal leak! I used the seal protector tool but I guess I'm just lucky.

The first seal kit came with the seal, snap ring, "O"ring and several felt wipers. This new kit came with seal, snap ring and two "O"rings with one being thicker. The OEM was the thinner as I still have the old parts. I know that seal also fits other compressors so do others use the thicker "O"ring?

On a side note: The seal removal tool I purchased in 2014 was a waste of money as these replacement seal don't have a deep pocket with a sharp shoulder to lock on to. After wrestling with the snap ring with my old snap ring pliers I tried that tool which didn't work, I had to remove the puller, coil and split the case. Once removed, two tries got the snap ring out and I just knocked it out from the inside.

use the thickest o-ring on H-6s-- use an awl to pull out snap rings- My seal puller works on new seals= but is is a factory made tool with a 2 inch twister knob...

GM Tech wrote:use the thickest o-ring on H-6s-- use an awl to pull out snap rings- My seal puller works on new seals= but is is a factory made tool with a 2 inch twister knob...

Even though it's thicker than the OEM? I can't seem find my info, what's the torque spec on the long tie bolts for the case sections?

Would your puller work on a seal where the thicker "O" ring was used? I tried the thicker one using the seal that I removed in just the cover alone and it's really tight!

Always lube o-ring and seal interior with mineral oil- I use "mechanics" torque on thru-bolts- too loose is bad- too tight, and you can break the bolt- or sometimes strip the threads- but as I remember- 20 Nm comes to mind....just have to have a feel for it-- after about the first 500 I did- I threw away the torque wrench.

GM Tech wrote:Always lube o-ring and seal interior with mineral oil- I use "mechanics" torque on thru-bolts- too loose is bad- too tight, and you can break the bolt- or sometimes strip the threads- but as I remember- 20 Nm comes to mind....just have to have a feel for it-- after about the first 500 I did- I threw away the torque wrench.

This has been converted to R134A using POE so I'll be using that. I looked at a half dozen or so PDFs and none give that spec only the bracket bolts, clutch nut and manifold but I was guessing at 15 lb/ft which is just over 20nm.

GM Tech wrote:Always lube o-ring and seal interior with mineral oil- I use "mechanics" torque on thru-bolts- too loose is bad- too tight, and you can break the bolt- or sometimes strip the threads- but as I remember- 20 Nm comes to mind....just have to have a feel for it-- after about the first 500 I did- I threw away the torque wrench.

I found a listing on eBay for a HR6 gasket kit with detailed torque specs which stated the long tie bolts at 72-84 lb/in which more like 10nm max which felt correct using a 3/8" torque wrench. It did list for a V5 20nm for the belly drain plug. Maybe that's what you were thinking of?

The only thing that threw me was it stated that the center case "O" ring was a different size from the other two! Since that's where the case came apart for me using a puller, it's really just a barrel there so I don't see it needing a different size "O" ring.

All 3 o-rings are the same size- believe me- I worked in the factory that assembled those compressors...

GM Tech wrote:All 3 o-rings are the same size- believe me- I worked in the factory that assembled those compressors...

I do and I didn't even work there!