Compressor "screams" into operation then cycles fine...

[Chipdumper]

I replaced a rusted out receiver drier on a 2004 Crown Victoria. I pulled vacuum for one hour and then observed it holding vacuum for a few hours - no leak is suspected. The problem is that when the A/C compressor is activated for the first time, it makes this ridiculous "stall" noise when the clutch assembly activates. Then it seems to work just fine for subsequent activation's of the compressor. Is this indicative of a bad compressor or is this more likely than not just an issue with the clutch? Should I try to turn the compressor over by hand to see if the pump is locking up when it sits idle?

Here is what the orifice tube looked like before I did the work (see the tiny pieces of aluminum?):

[Cusser]

The problem is that when the A/C compressor is activated for the first time, it makes this ridiculous "stall" noise when the clutch assembly activates. Then it seems to work just fine for subsequent activation's of the compressor. Is this indicative of a bad compressor or is this more likely than not just an issue with the clutch? Should I try to turn the compressor over by hand to see if the pump is locking up when it sits idle?

Is this compressor driven by a conventional belt or a serpentine belt? Because it might just be a slightly-loose belt; can you tighten the belt a little and try? I have a Nissan 1998 truck that has all sorts of squeals at times on start up and with AC start up, but I don't want to overtighten the compressor belt and wear out the compressor "prematurely". I say "prematurely because that's got 211K on it !!!

Or the belt could be glazed from age and slippage - have you tried a new belt, and a good-quality one? Remember, with the AC off, there's very little stress on that AC pulley, but once it engages, takes some force to turn it.

If mine, I would've pulled the belt and turn over the compressor with a wrench, just so I'd have a feel for its resistance too.

[Chipdumper]

It is serp belt driven. I just started putting "2 and 2" together and realized that if such little specs of metal made it thru the condenser and all the way to the orifice, the pump is probably toast or almost there and that the condenser needs to be replaced too...

I literally just purchased a brand new Motorcraft YC-2493 compressor (without clutch) from eBay (new old stock) for $200 shipped. I just want this to work and not have to replace parts over and over and over. The question is now, do I yank off the 12-year old clutch assembly and re-install or do I buy lets say a new Motorcraft clutch pulley/bearing assembly and reuse the existing coil, etc.?

RockAuto shows the condenser as such: "MOTORCRAFT YJ630 {#3W1Z19712AC}" $131.79

[Cusser]

The question is now, do I yank off the 12-year old clutch assembly and re-install or do I buy lets say a new Motorcraft clutch pulley/bearing assembly and reuse the existing coil, etc.?

If you re-use the AC clutch, I'd replace its bearing if I could. On the Sanden compressor in my Mazda truck, that bearing is readily available, and removeable.

[Chipdumper]

Good point - I never thought of of just doing the bearing. I've done that for fan pulleys before.

[Jag987]

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