Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

2006 Hyundai Azera
145k miles

I just climbed out from under this car. And with filthy fingers and brow furrowed in frustration, I bang this solicitation for suggestions into the keyboard. Here goes...

The field coil on the compressor is bad. I need to replace it. I have the car on jack stands with the compressor dangling from its hoses. I've removed the 8mm fastener in the center of the clutch plate. And that is as far as I have gotten.

The clutch plate will not come off. Period.

The pulley spins freely; the clutch plate spins freely. But the thing will not release from the spines that hold it to the compressor shaft. I've sprayed WD-40 where I can, whacked the clutch with a ball-peen hammer, and pried at the edges against my intuition ...all for the past hour, at least. Yet...

The clutch plate will not come off.

Unlike brake rotors, there are no holes in the clutch plate to thread in bolts to push the thing away from the hub (...stupid Hyundai). I have a new clutch and field coil so my plan is to drill 3mm holes laterally thru the clutch at each perimeter rivet, insert rod into each and work at the clutch that way. But before I go to that trouble, I figured I'd posit the question in this h'yer forum.

Suggestions? Recommendations?

That shaft looks pretty rusty.... Try a good penetrating lube, like PB Blaster, soak the crap out of it and let it marinate overnight. Then try pulling/prying it off again tomorrow. You'll also have better luck pulling/prying it off if you remount the compressor solidly to its engine bracket rather than trying this while it's hanging from the AC hoses.

As you're likely aware, this model clutch plate fits into the pulley with a splined insert. I don't see how penetrating oil can find its way to the mating surfaces that are the source of the friction. Nonetheless, I'll soak the thing best I can in penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. I need a break anyway. But clearly that clutch plate knows i mean business. I warned it, "Don't make me get the Sawzall."

Just a guess,
Orange center looks like sintered bronze washer not a splined shaft. If so,strike the washer from the side and it may pop out, exposing the shaft. Reinsert the center bolt and lightly hit it.
hotrodac

I see why you'd suspect that, given the image. There's no washer on this clutch. That's just yer ordinary burnt umber hue of rust under the fastener.

It's generally ill-advised to strike the compressor shaft, which is what that 8mm bolt threads into. I've whacked (politely) at the plate from every angle--I've even used an electric hammer all around the thing. But the splined fitting won't release.

Have you tried getting a puller on it? If you don't own one, I believe that AutoZone and some of the other auto parts stores will lend you a puller of the appropriate size that'll make the job easy without damaging the shaft.

There's two problems with using a puller on the clutch plate. First, it's recessed within the pulley so there's no clearance for the jaws; amd second, i can't use the puller on the pulley (yet) because it's held to the compressor shaft with a snap ring.

That said, i have a new approach.
The spline portion (that's stuck in the spine insert within the pulley) is riveted to the clutch plate (see image above). If i drill out those rivets, the clutch plate should fall free and reveal the spline "plate", for lack of a better word. I predict this'll accomplish two things: 1) expose the splines to a direct dousing of PB B'laster; and, 2) provide enough clearance to get a small three-jaw puller on the perimeter of the spline part. (see image below)

And with that stubborn thing out, i can remove the snap ring from the pulley, then use a puller to remove it and finally... finally... Get at that field coil. Bleh.

If you get the magnetic field coil out it likely has a one time thermal fuse buried in the winding and is not practical to repair.
Failure root cause could be heat due to slippage from excessive air gap.
Replacement coils, if avaliable cost almost as much as Tim's great better than new new knock off compressor.
hotrodac

I have both a new OEM field coil and clutch plate in hand. Honestly, I'd expect to have had the job finished by now--without ever having to open up the system--if the thing came apart like it should.

...grumble.

Looking at the exploded diagram, I can now visualize the problems you mentioned. Let us know whether your new strategy works out.