Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

I read that for a new Sanden compressor, it's important to rotate the compressor by hand before charging the first time, maybe a dozen revs.

Mine is installed, I can take the belt off but it's kind of hard to get my hand in there. I have the hoses hooked up but no R134A installed and no vacuum.

I assume the outer puller is NOT what I want to turn since with no power to the compressor clutch, it just just spins.

Is there some kind of tool that makes it easy to spin the inner part? It looks like there are holes drilled for something.

msrichmond wrote: ↑Tue Jun 25, 2024 6:13 pm Is there some kind of tool that makes it easy to spin the inner part? It looks like there are holes drilled for something.

There's no center nut on that compressor drive plate on which you can put a socket to turn it??? Post a picture so we can see the drive plate then.

I should know better than to post a question late in the day - I woke up this morning realizing that there is a 14mm nut on the center holding on the clutch. A short-handle ⅜" drive ratchet and 14mm socket got it done. I could feel the compression/release cycle as I turned it.

D'oh.

Assuming you did the comp install yourself, the correct procedure is to drain out the shipping oil that came with the new comp, being sure to measure how much you got by draining into a paint cup or similar. Then installing the equivalent amount of the correct fresh oil, and in the process rotating the comp drive shaft as you did to distribute the fresh oil. This is certainly easier with the comp on the bench.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2024 3:21 pm Assuming you did the comp install yourself, the correct procedure is to drain out the shipping oil that came with the new comp, being sure to measure how much you got by draining into a paint cup or similar. Then installing the equivalent amount of the correct fresh oil, and in the process rotating the comp drive shaft as you did to distribute the fresh oil. This is certainly easier with the comp on the bench.

Years ago I bought a compressor for my 1988 Mazda truck from this board's sponsor, was keeping the truck R-12. I tested a drop of the oil at work in the lab (FTIR, for those interested) and it had been filled with PAG oil by the manufacturer. So I flushed the compressor like 3 times manually with 525 mineral oil before draining and filling with correct amount.

A couple of months later my co-worker bought a new compressor for his R-12 1990 Mazda Protege from the board sponsor, and that one DID contain 525 mineral oil when we tested a drop. Go figure !