Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

Hi!

I’m an independant mechanic in Bakersfield, Ca.

Re-fitting a new to me 2006 Lincoln Navigator w/156,000 on clock for my family people mover. Doing a timing job and had to discharge AC to complete job. This will be my first AC repair ever.

I replaced both Schrader valves (one was leaking) after I had system discharged (very low on refrigerant) by mobile mechanic because I don’t own those tools yet.

I’m pretty OCD and own all the Ford manuals for this truck as well as buying an AC repair book on Amazon by Jerry Clemons that I’m working my way through.

While I was cleaning up all the oil and other leaking fluids under the car I realized that the front seal (not on the clutch or driveshaft of compressor) on stock compressor was leaking oil (but still worked before I took the car apart) after I cleaned and degreased it. Looking at sticker on compressor appears to be the original one from the factory.

I have already purchased a new dryer and all the new o-ring seals. There doesn’t appear to be any metal in any of the lines I removed so I doubt the compressor was coming apart yet but definitely leaking.

While shopping for new compressor I noticed that some manufacturers/retailers like Rock Auto were offering an “upgraded” compressor that was the piston type, not the scroll type OEM compressor.

Even the Ford one is now sourced from China (which I am not happy about) so looks like I’m stuck with Chinese parts no matter what.

My question is should I just get a new Ford part (YCC165) or should I get one of the different design piston types that are claimed to be an upgrade.

It frequently gets over 110 in summer here in Bako and the part description claims that the piston type compressor does better at idle and higher rpms than the stock scroll type.

Thoughts?

Recommendations for quality reliable aftermarket brand?


Have had serious issues in last year with any aftermarket parts not fitting or functioning correctly or failing quickly for other things and dubious about the quality I would recieve going w/ aftermarket part.

Thank you for your input!

Wait for JohnHere to chime in, I defer to him

Hi tbirdtbird,

The right advice is worth waiting for, thank you very much for acknowledging my post!

Have a nice day!

I offer either the "China" or the P models. Most likely, the identical items since I know "a" supplier for RA. Either is a solid unit per my data. The problem with the New Ford units was the clutches stunk! The P version costs more, but is the claimed upgrade worth it? That is all up to what the buyer believes.

We can backtrack and say many lowball buyers are simply swapping compressors. Then blame the China model as the reason for the repeated failure. If you do as you say, by the book, repair and remove debris, oil and start fresh with components. The China model will be fine. Do some shortcuts, and neither will be a success.

Email me the rock part/price. I can see if I can match or beat it. info@ackits.com

Tim is the site admin and has been in the mobile AC business for decades. You may not be aware since you are new here. He sells AC parts, supplies, and components at his site www.ackits.com

Getting prices from him is always a good idea. He is from AZ where it is 120F in the summer. You have to know what you are doing under those circumstances

If presented with a choice, I would go with a piston compressor over a scroll.

The only parts I've had trouble with in the past are aftermarket TXV's.

And I agree...start with a scrupulously clean and dry system, add PAG oil and pure refrigerant according to the manufacturer's specs, and your compressor (whichever type you choose) should last a good long time.

Thank all of you for your responses.

OK.

So when I tore it apart after evacuation the remaining oil looks new. No debris, metal contamination, etc.

So how far do I have to go with the replacement of parts and cleaning?

I have no AC tools. Does system need to be flushed if only the compressor case gasket was failing?

Can I clean the individual tubes (out of car) with water and degreaser or is a solvent flush the only way to clean?

I was planning on buying at least a manifold guage set and a vaccum pump to confirm that I gotten all the leaks after I put it back together but was planning on calling the guy who evacuated it back to recharge it since he charged me for both jobs when he did first one.

I’m not lazy or cheap and would replace and clean whatever I’m told to do. As I stated in first post I had already purchased replacement dryer before I found leaking compressor. Do I need to replace both TXV’s with Ford parts?

The Ford manual I have states that unless clear physical evidence of internal compressor failure only replace what is broken.

Given Tim’s info about the Ford clutch and your opinion about the piston type I think I’m leaning towards whatever brand Tim thinks is the best version of the piston type compressor and happy to purchase from him in gratitude for the advice.

P.S. Its going to be 100 today with almost no humidity and anything I clean off the car with water and degreaser would be completely dry by end of day inside and out,

Also I have purchased a vehicle specific o-ring kit (aftermarket) as well as an assortment of AC o-rings and neither one has all of the exact same thickness and internal diameter o-rings for my system.

Is there a Ford kit that has the exact sizes?

Only one size I need is a bit off in thickness but don’t know how anal I need to get, my book says they need to be exactly same size and type of material as origional.

Here is the oil I just removed from compressor.

Looks new to me. It is super windy here today and sunny making it difficult to take picture and any little bits you might see were not from the system but my yard.

To get you started,
"Can I clean the individual tubes (out of car) with water and degreaser or is a solvent flush the only way to clean?"
Under NO circumstances should you use anything water based inside an AC system. You will destroy the system.
Tim has suitable flush