Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

Car had been sitting a few years and the compressor clutch as well as the alternator were seized such that it threw the belt after being started. Bought the cheapest used compressor and alternator on Ebay for about $32 each just so I could drive the car. It drives fine, so I vacuumed the system for 15 minutes, waited 15 minutes to see if it held steady around -30Hg, it did, vacuumed another 2 hours and charged it up to spec. It was blowing nice and cold. That was 2 weeks ago. Today the first warm day of spring and no a/c. I haven't put the gauges on it yet but assume the freon leaked out from the compressor as you can see the dripping from it.



I was under the impression that if it holds vacuum for 15 minutes, the system is tight, no? This isn't the first car this scenario has happened. What else could I have done to make sure there isn't going be a leak?

atikovi wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 6:16 pm Today the first warm day of spring and no a/c. I haven't put the gauges on it yet but assume the freon leaked out from the compressor as you can see the dripping from it.

Hard to tell, but it looks like the leak could be at the compressor's seam (sealed with a large o-ring) or at the hose connection. In your photo, I notice what appears to be a small crack in the compressor's case that might also be leaking. It's always a chance you take with used parts being potentially defective in some way.

atikovi wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 6:16 pm I was under the impression that if it holds vacuum for 15 minutes, the system is tight, no? This isn't the first car this scenario has happened. What else could I have done to make sure there isn't going be a leak?

Holding a vacuum is not a guarantee that a system won't leak under pressure, and vice versa. The dynamics of vacuum versus pressure in an A/C system are very different. You could have leaked-checked the system first using a trace charge of refrigerant and pressurizing the system with nitrogen to about 100 PSI, then scanning it with a "sniffer."

If you're planning on keeping the car for the foreseeable future and want the A/C to work, I suggest consulting with Tim at ACKits.com, this site's sponsor, for a brand-new compressor and any additional parts you might need.

Since the previous scroll compressor seized, it's probable that it shed plastic and metallic debris into the rest of the system. At a minimum, I believe you're looking at a new compressor, a new R/D, a new condenser, and cleaning-out the rest of the components by flushing them. It's up to you whether you want to make the investment.

"You could have leaked-checked the system first using a trace charge of refrigerant and pressurizing the system with nitrogen to about 100 PSI, then scanning it with a "sniffer."

A very good idea.

I have also vacuumed down and puffed in about 20-30 psi of refrigerant and not further pressurized with success , but John's method is best

Totally agree with everything John said

You used a wrecking yard compressor. Odds are the seals were dry from sitting around. It held vacuum until you started spinning the compressor moving parts and adding pressure. Not sure any method is going to provide repeated correct information when using a wrecking yard compressor. IMO.

Tim wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 12:35 pm You used a wrecking yard compressor. Odds are the seals were dry from sitting around. It held vacuum until you started spinning the compressor moving parts and adding pressure. Not sure any method is going to provide repeated correct information when using a wrecking yard compressor. IMO.

That's so true. I just wanted to get this thing driveable so took a chance on a $32 compressor. It's served that purpose just fine. The junkyard sent a second one, but it's locked up. I would think they could at least spin it by hand to check first. Do you sell a reseal kit for this compressor?

As has already been said, you are seriously barking up the wrong tree with trying to make these junkyard units do much of anything anything

Well, I'd like to reseal the original one which worked great except for the seals. A $30 seal kit and some of my time beats spending $250 for a new compressor, especially when I'm selling the car soon.

If memory serves, I think you said that the original compressor seized and tossed the drive belt. Can you rotate the clutch hub by hand? If not, the compressor is indeed seized, and a new front seal kit isn't going to fix it.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 9:50 pm If memory serves, I think you said that the original compressor seized and tossed the drive belt. Can you rotate the clutch hub by hand? If not, the compressor is indeed seized, and a new front seal kit isn't going to fix it.

Think they purchased a wrecking yard unit.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 9:50 pm If memory serves, I think you said that the original compressor seized and tossed the drive belt. Can you rotate the clutch hub by hand? If not, the compressor is indeed seized, and a new front seal kit isn't going to fix it.

The alternator was seized and the a/c clutch was rusted together. It turns fine. The first junkyard one worked great mechanically but leaked. They sent me a second one but that's locked up so I didn't even try to install it. They refunded me and I'm back to square one. I have taken the original one apart for a learning experience. Looks nice and clean inside and the parts turn smoothly. How can I find out which version of Delphi CVC I have? There are 125, 135, 165, 185 which refer to the displacement. Would like to replace the seals on the first junkyard one to see how it goes.