Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

2009 Ford Fusion: Ambient temperature is 88 degrees F. Static pressures are Low side-105psi and High side-145psi. When the compressor turns on it quickly turns off when the low side pressure gets down to 50 psi and when the high side pressure hits 210 psi. I replaced the high side cut off switch just to be sure, no help. But I'm thinking expansion valve? Any other ideas?

Need more info.

At an RPM of 1500, please provide the hi and lo pressures, and provide the ambient temp.
Doors should be open, fan on max, AC on max, recirc on. Then we can get back to you

Has any work been done to the system recently?
Anyone add a can of 134 that had sealer in it? (the dreaded ACPro kit)

Static pressures that won't equalize suggest either a faulty TXV or an obstruction. How much time did you allow for the pressures to equalize after the system and vehicle were turned off?

Ambient temp 88 degrees. Before A/C is on and compressor kicks on low side 105psi and high side 105psi. Then when compressor comes on the low side goes down to 50psi and the high side up to 210psi then compressor turns off. No work done recently. I really don't remember if I ever put any refrigerant with sealant in it or not. It would have been a few years ago if I did though.

I'm still thinking a TXV because of the way the low pressure goes down slowly and steadily until it gets to about 75 and then drops really fast to 50 and kicks off.

drdinero wrote: ↑Wed Jun 01, 2022 10:45 am 2009 Ford Fusion: Ambient temperature is 88 degrees F. Static pressures are Low side-105psi and High side-145psi.

Okay, "145 PSI" must have been a typo, then, because a later post mentioned that the static pressure for both the low and high sides was 105 PSI, which sounds about right.

Something is "fishy" about the erratic low-side running pressures, though. Is the TXV accessible from the engine compartment or is it buried within the dash?

The TXV is pretty accessible from the engine compartment at the firewall.

drdinero wrote: ↑Thu Jun 02, 2022 5:56 am The TXV is pretty accessible from the engine compartment at the firewall.

After having the refrigerant recovered—and presuming you have the proper equipment to evacuate and recharge the system—I'd go ahead and replace the TXV with an OEM part, not aftermarket. Symptoms are pointing toward the TXV, and it's fairly easy to access, so you might as well change it to eliminate one potential problem. While you're working on the system, I suggest replacing the desiccant pack as well.

According to the specs I have, your car takes 21 ounces net weight of R-134a and 6 fluid ounces of PAG-46.

Thanks very much for your input. I actually bought a TXV early this morning but an aftermarket one, from AutoZone. The brand is FourSeasons. But I just searched and found a MotorCraft (OEM) for just a few dollars more online. So I'll return the unopened aftermarket one to AutoZone. I'll also buy a receiver dryer.

Regarding the oil you mention, when I vacuum down the system I thought the oil stays in the system.

Vacuuming down a system doesn't remove oil, as you suspected.
I think John was just giving you both specs that he had.
But it would be a good idea to drill a hole in the bottom of the FD once out and measure how much oil comes out.
This can be tricky, since the filter beads can absorb the oil.
If nothing comes out, I would add one oz of oil to the new FD

Be sure to orient the FD correctly with respect to IN and OUT

I believe on this vehicle, the R/D is integral with the condenser and not a separate unit. If so, you'll have to purchase a desiccant kit. Besides the fabric bag containing the desiccant beads, the kit includes a new plug, plus a few odds and ends. If you want to add some oil, you'll have to remove the condenser and invert it because as installed in the car, the removable plug is on the bottom. However, if you happen to have an oil-injector tool, you can inject one ounce into a test port, saving some work. Or, buy a small can of refrigerant with one ounce of oil mixed in.

Good that you'll go with the OEM TXV. A few years ago, some of the new aftermarket TXV's weren't working correctly. I'm not sure whether that's still the case. Unfortunately, a technician wouldn't discover a defective TXV until after it was installed and the system evacuated and recharged—requiring that the job be re-done. I still try to purchase an OEM TXV if possible.