Locked up comp. on 97 Suburban 5.7L

[planeacct47]

I'm certain this sounds like a dumb question, but I really need to get my vehicle back on the street. Is there any way to temporarily disconnect the clutch to be able to drive vehicle? System was functional until it seized up,caught it fast enough before it ruined the belt. I dont want to rush a replacement system right now. I have looked at the "bypass pulley brackets", cheap junk at a not so cheap price, with no warranty. Don't want to chance that pulley failing, til I do it right. I am checking with dealer Monday to see if I can make it a no a/c engine, would use a real engine type pulley, and put shorter belt on for now.. Or maybe find an old comp. that was removed for leaking, as a place holder for now. Any ideas ? Thank you very much for your time, and thoughts.

[DetroitAC]

What seized? Was it the compressor or was it the compressor pulley bearing? Basically: does it squeal the belt only when AC is engaged or whenever the engine is running?

[planeacct47]

DetroitAC, Can't THANK YOU enough! I'm usually a pretty thorough thinker, but my furnace quit at the same time,didnt hit me to try it with power unplugged. Pulled it, started, no seize! There is some minor noise, no big deal, IT'S DRIVABLE AGAIN! What is the next step? so it is the clutch?, and whole system needs redone, as I was planning on before failure?

[Cusser]

...didnt hit me to try it with power unplugged. Pulled it, started, no seize! There is some minor noise, no big deal, IT'S DRIVABLE AGAIN! What is the next step?

If I understand correctly, you unplugged the wire harness to the AC compressor, and the noise stopped. That indicates that your compressor itself is locked up, and your AC compressor clutch is still spinning freely, so you can drive the vehicle.

I'm assuming that your 1997 has a single serpentine belt, and GM eventually went to a separate small AC belt in later years.

1. I would be surprised if there is NOT a serpentine belt available for Suburbans or GM trucks that never had AC.

2. After a seized compressor, repair of the system typically means new AC compressor with clutch, new condenser, new orifice tube and backflush to clean other components. So will not be cheap !

[planeacct47]

Cusser, You are correct. Thank you for reply. I was wanting to get done this past summer, but someone ran a red light, T-boned my 99 Burb, their insurance company is horrible, so havent been able to take 97 down to do it. I am so very glad I found this site and the great people here willing to help. I won't be doing it myself, but I have learned all the PROPER steps to follow for great result. From what I have read, a Sandeen 4440 is the compressor to use along with the parts you described. Again, THANK YOU! DetroitAC for saving me the expense of the bypass pulley craziness.

[planeacct47]

Just followed up with dealer on 5.7L,no A/C engine set up for A/C compressor clutch failure, both pulley and belt avail, 1 day away.

Idler pulley # 125800752 $74.79

Serpitine belt # 19355574 $85.30

If I have to do this longer term, not near as likely to fail as cheap junk "bypass pulley and bracket". Going to check prices at other places now that I know they are available.

[DetroitAC]

You don't need to buy anything until you want to get the AC operational again. If I'm understanding your answers, what you have now is a non-AC Suburban, compressor is locked up, but the compressor pulley is just fine, it acts like an idler pulley until you engage the clutch. Lots of people have an AC compressor that fails, and it's perfectly fine to just keep driving the vehicle that way. This is how nearly every vehicle works in the winter, the compressor doesn't engage, the pulley acts like an idler.

DON'T buy a new idler pulley and a new belt, you can unplug the electrical connector to the clutch or remove the A/C clutch fuse, and you will be good to go until you want to replace that compressor to get AC working again.

[Cusser]

You don't need to buy anything until you want to get the AC operational again. If I'm understanding your answers, what you have now is a non-AC Suburban, compressor is locked up, but the compressor pulley is just fine, it acts like an idler pulley until you engage the clutch. Lots of people have an AC compressor that fails, and it's perfectly fine to just keep driving the vehicle that way.

When the AC compressor on my 2004 Frontier seized a few years ago on a vacation trip to San Diego, was only 103F outside that morning, and we just drove on without the AC turned on, just used the blower motor and wet towels through the desert. That Frontier has separate drive belt for the AC compressor, but just left that belt on and let it turn just the AC clutch pulley. I replaced its compressor and condenser a few month later, and did a reverse flush of the lines, to fix; no way was I going to pay a shop 400 miles from home to do an AC repair and essentially have zero warranty !!! We just wore few clothes and braved the return trip with wet towels.

Funny thing, that 2004 had like 103K miles when it failed, and my 1998 Frontier with same AC still has 265K on its factory compressor; both work GREAT in Arizona desert. But my 1988 Mazda B2200 truck (still R-12) has faster and hotter heat but less effective AC, go figure.

[planeacct47]

Thank you both again. I will feel much more comfortable to do the new pulley and belt for now, as hot as that compressor was the other night, was almost on fire, thankful there was snow on the ground, close to getting steam burns from snow melt on it. Plus, I will have it if needed for my other Burb, or drop off to my mechanic.

PARTS INFO UPDATE
NAPA USUALLY HAS ALL PARTS IN STOCK! Prices as of January 2022 Mid atlantic area.
NO A/C IDLER PULLEY -GROOVED # 209780 $28.97
NO A/C 105 AMP ALTERNATOR SERPENTINE BELT # 25060870 $45.10
NO A/C 140 AMP ALTERNATOR SERPENTINE BELT # 25060875 $54.40
Leave failed clutch compressor in place until replaced, or not, just unplug A/C clutch power connector.

[Tim]

Napa needs more attention.

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