scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 5:01 pm
I don't have any way to reclaim the system.
I don't have an RRR machine, either. But a local tire store close by does. So I go there whenever I need to recover refrigerant. It takes only a few minutes, they're happy to do it for me, and they gain some "free" refrigerant, which they can re-sell. Why not check into that in your locale?
scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 5:01 pm
I just put the gauges on again tonight to double check. As per my manual for temp/humidity my low side is only 5-7psi above max. High side is about 100 psi below max.
scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 6:22 am
Pressures are around 35/175. 75 degrees out, 50% humidity. Center vent only getting down to 55. @ 2000 rpm.
If you tested the pressures the second time at approximately the same ambient of 75 degrees, the pressures you posted aren't very far off at all. The low-side pressure of 35 PSI corresponds to an evaporator temperature of about 42 degrees. Preferably, it should be around 30 PSI to get the evap down to about 34 degrees. But center vent temps hovering at the 55-degree mark suggest that you might have some re-heating going on.
scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 6:22 am
According to my factory service manual the low side looks a little high, and the high side a little low. Slightly overcharged maybe? But I haven't added any refrigerant lately.
If anything, I agree with previous comments that it's a little undercharged, not overcharged.
scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 5:01 pm
This system is all original (170k miles) as far as I know. Safe to assume it's either the compressor or a plugged up orifice tube?
To check whether the compressor is pumping up to snuff, cut a sheet of masking paper (even a large paper or plastic bag will suffice), position same on the front of the condenser to momentarily block airflow, hold the engine RPM at about 1,800, turn on the A/C, and watch the high-side gauge. If the pressure rises to around 300 PSI, immediately shut off the A/C system and engine. The compressor is doing its job.
I doubt that the problem is a plugged OT, either. If it
is plugged, you'd be seeing very low pressures on the low side, and it might even pull into a vacuum. Clearly, that's not the case here.
scoob8000 wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 5:01 pm
If I'm going to discharge the system, I might as well flush and rebuild it all.
Why go through all of that work and expense if the only problem is a low charge? As said earlier, I would first recover the charge, weigh it, evacuate well, recharge to specs, then re-evaluate the pressures and cooling performance.
The specs for your car call for 28 ounces of R-134a and 8 ounces of oil--PAG-150 for a Harrison compressor, and PAG-46 for a Denso compressor.