2015 Subaru Forester AC Compressor replacement

[nizzle321]

Hi everyone. First post.

I signed up because I'm planning on replacing the compressor and condenser on my 2015 subaru forester 2.5i.

The foresters of this generation, 2014-2018, are pretty notorious for their short lived compressors. I've got 140k+ on mine, which isn't terrible I suppose. Last summer, the clutch stopped engaging, so I reduced the shim stack by a little bit in order to get it to engage again. That lasted maybe a month before I had to do it again. At some point over the winter, my compressor started to make a worn out bearing sound. No grinding per say, but the sound of the death of my compressor, for sure. I pretty much stopped using it on defrost mode (my go to HVAC setting when I first get into my cold car) at that point so it wouldn't get any worse. W/summer right around the corner, I need to get this done.

I've never done this before. I've witnessed it before by a uncle of a friend of mine. But he's no longer local. I have a AC vacuum and hopefully all the correct fittings.

I've got a lot of reading to do. If anyone has any suggested reading, please hook me up.

Also, if anyone has any opinions on UAC, GPD, or Four Seasons compressors, please share. I haven't been able to find any useful reviews on any of them. But I haven't looked very hard either.

Thank you!

[Tim]

We offer a new OE Compressor for this vehicle.

When the shop was open had a friend with one of these vehicles. Compressors never seemed to last no matter which brand one used. All new I should ad not rebuilt.

https://ackits.net/search-results/?fwp_ ... 5i-limited

[nizzle321]

Just speculating here. I've noticed the expansion valve's part number has been changed at some point on this car. Wondering if what affects these compressors is just normal wear or something else.

Can't say anything about compressors from these brands, but curiously enough, 4seasons pretty always shows a positive superheat value for valves employed with vane compressors such as yours. A 2005 Legacy for example has a scroll compressor and its 39048 expansion valve shows a negative superheat. I can say i know some instances where OEM iterations of the 38884 expansion valve, which appears to have a positive superheat value, have been used with variable displacement compressors too. Obviously, the best course of action is to always use the OEM recommended expansion valve and nothing else.

Why does this stuff really matter? Many modern expansion valves have a mixed gas charge that forces the orifice to never close completely even at very low heat loads, and that's 0 superheat: a flooded evaporator basically. Which means that some liquid droplets will be eventually able to reach the compressor as the evaporator gets cold. Oil dissolves easier in liquid refrigerant than in gaseous refrigerant. For fixed displacement compressors, the end result is better lubrication and a cooler compressor (for variable ones, displacement adjustment becomes smoother also). A compressor that will definitely last a long time.

To me, provided that the noise comes from the compressor internals and not from the clutch or its bearing, the noise might be caused by the compressor running with a low refrigerant charge, possible since it's a TXV system, but i could be terribly wrong and i'm letting the more experienced have their word to say.

Interesting you bring this up. I do notice the noise only when the AC is on. And I feel as though, last summer, my car just wouldn't get as cold inside. I contemplated recharging it. But then the non-engaging clutch problem came up. Followed by the noise. Now, if I try to run it, I get no cold air at all. When I did some research on SubaruForester.org, there were quite a few folks there complaining about their ac compressor. And there's even a tsb about it (but no recall since it isn't a safety item).

I just have a hard time believing that the tinny swirl metal on metal sound isn't something that has gone kaputz.

I haven't bought anything yet.

[nizzle321]

We offer a new OE Compressor for this vehicle.

When the shop was open had a friend with one of these vehicles. Compressors never seemed to last no matter which brand one used. All new I should ad not rebuilt.

https://ackits.net/search-results/?fwp_ ... 5i-limited

That's an excellent price compared to what subaru parts dealers sell. Despite the issues with the MY compressors of my forester's generation, it seems like the issue is no more. I'm wondering if this compressor has a "fix". I shouldn't bet on it.

Is there any kind of warranty?

Looks like I need to replace the A/C Receiver Drier Desiccant Element and Expansion valve too.

[Tim]

Compressors offered have a 12 month warranty. Via our suppliers or oursheleves.

[nizzle321]

Interesting you bring this up. I do notice the noise only when the AC is on. And I feel as though, last summer, my car just wouldn't get as cold inside. I contemplated recharging it. But then the non-engaging clutch problem came up. Followed by the noise. Now, if I try to run it, I get no cold air at all.

I just have a hard time believing that the tinny swirl metal on metal sound isn't something that has gone kaputz.

Do you also get a steady hissing noise from under the dash whenever you run AC and the compressor is running? If so, you're definitely running with a low low refrigerant charge and depriving the compressor of any lubrication... hence the metal on metal sound coming from inside the compressor.

I believe I did before the issue started. But right now, I have the clutch wire unplugged so I can run the air across my windshield if I need to.

So, I'm not sure if it will last any longer, but subaru issued a fix: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Subaru/Cr ... -16r.shtml

The new compressor Part Number is 7311FJ041 which supersedes 7311FJ040. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2017_ ... FJ041.html

My Compressor is a 7311FJ040 or Valeo PN DKV-10Z.

I have no idea if the compressors you would get from Rockauto would have the latest improvements or not. It seems like you either buy the compressor from a subaru parts supplier or take the chance w/RockAuto or the like.

[nizzle321]

By all means an OEM compressor is always the best choice for a relatively new vehicle. Be aware though that the part number 73111FJ041, not 7311FJ041.

However, i think you have an underlying refrigerant leak issue somewhere and i suggest you to find it and address it before operating the new compressor. Otherwise you might ruin your new compressor. These compressors run on thick double end capped PAG 100 oil (that's what ZXL200PG is) to keep the chamber walls happy. Not enough oil flowing back and the vanes score the chamber walls really good really fast.

Right. 73111FJ041.

So I should charge the system with the busted compressor and with dye in it so I can find the leak with a black light? I need to research this. Thanks for the suggestion.

According to the service manual for the forester, the system takes 1 lb of of R134a. A test wouldn't be that expensive if I find the leak and can do the final repair with almost 100% certainty that it will hold up.

However, the rest of the parts are turning this into quite expensive venture. The OEM compressor is about $640. Then, from RockAuto, expansion Valve: $18, condensor: $60, Dryer: $18. Plus whatever that is leaking. Maybe an o-ring or AC line. I'm at a minimum of $750. I'm wondering if it would actually be worth taking it to a subaru dealership or other qualified mechanic... I should probably make some phone calls.

[nizzle321]

According to Subaru's service manual, I should use a electronic leak detector. So I should indeed charge the system first.

I did a quick search. There doesn't appear to be a electronic leak detector for borrow from Advance Autoparts or Autozone. Are there any online vendors that have them for rent?

It also seems to be kinda silly to do this with my known defective compressor. I think I should instead use the new compressor and check for leaks right away. I don't think it will be a big leak, so don't need to worry about starving the brand new compressor of oil.

[Tim]

Nitrogen with a little R134a works fine for leak checks. Personal preference on using either a electric or a dye style leak detection option.

[nizzle321]

I need some help. When I turn the AC on, the compressor turns but never turns off. And the air isn't cold. Maybe slightly cooler than ambient. The high and low pressure line fittings get warm to too hot to touch. And none of the lines get too cold to touch.

I replaced the following:
- compressor,
- condensor,
- expansion valve,
- and all the o-rings in the lines connecting those parts
- Serpentine belt

Everything went together pretty nicely. I followed subaru's instruction and made sure the new o-rings were gunk free and had a nice coating of the refrigerant oil before inserting. The lines and expansion valve were torqued to spec.

my dad and I followed subaru's refrigerant charging procedure for my forester. We did the following:
- open both high and low side on AC gauge manifold and run a vacuum for 5 min or until it reaches -14 psi, stop, and wait 10 min.
- Check for leaks. No leaks.
- Continued the evacuation for 30 minutes to get the air and moisture out.
- close both high and low side valves

Then since it was diner time, we let it sit for 2 or so hours. Went back and the gauges were still both pegged at their minimum value. No leaks.

After removing the vacuum from the feed line, we tapped the one container of refrigerant. I had two containers of R134A, each with 12 oz of R134A in them. Both are several years old.

Continuing from the service manual, we;
- hooked up the can of R134 to the feed line
- open valve on can
- purge air and moisture out of feed line.
- Open low and high side valves to allow system to fill.
- check low pressure gauge. if at 2bar, close high and low valves.
- with low and high side valves closed, start the engine
- set the AC up w/the following settings;
- Max cold, max fans, vent
- bring engine rpm to 1500 rpm.
- Open the low side valve and allow it to fill with refrigerant until it reaches the specified amount.
Looking at the table provided, It gives a high side pressure between 10 and 15 bar and a low side pressure between 20 and 28 bar (for the ambient temperature of 77 F). Note, it was only 60-65 out when we were doing this.

Here's where things get confusing for me.
ON the first 12 oz can, the pressures went higher than spec on the high side. THis indicates that it was over filled. But I didn't use even a full 12 ounces of refrigerant. And the compressor just stayed on... as long as the AC was set to be on, the compressor's clutch stayed engaged. And that's when the line in and out of the compressor get really hot.

w/the valves closed and engine off, I let a little R134 out at the high side. The reading on the valve went down a little bit. So we turned the car back on. No change. compressor still runs forever. And no cold air is blown and the lines get really hot.

Going on what my dad thinks, that the system doesn't have enough refrigerant, we tapped the other can of R134, purged the air, opened the low side valve, and turned the car on. I let as much refrigerant in to bring the high side up to the maximum. This took a few seconds at most.

No change. Fittings still get really hot and clutch never disengages.

Please help if you can.

Thank again!