Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

The ARA number referred me back here?? My '86 Minnie has a '93 ARA evaporator. The return line is small braided hose coupled to the normal size about a foot from condenser. At that coupling is a spring loaded check valve. I'm not finding an orifice tube anywhere. The connections at evaporator are covered with tar like insulation. Maybe this system didn't have the orifice tube. If so I'd think the so called condenser repair fitting that houses the orifice tube would be usable on this unit. The tag says ARA unit number 0508050, serial 2146971464, build date 6/3/93. Any thoughts guys?

Last I heard, ARA is out of business.

So I've learned. Just looking for anyone w knowledge of system. If I don't find an orifice that may be the reason it failed. The installer left something out. I'll graft one in if necessary.

Back then, didn't most add on units use an expansion valve?

yes they used expansion valves with internal equalization.

Ok, tore dash apart turned unit down to see back, peeled tar and there are the connections and valve. I read they can only be tested on running system. So I need to flush. Does the valve need to be removed for that? The big worry is after flush, reassemble and charge the valve doesn't work- Change out valve or retrofit orifice tube?? The plot certainly thickened today!

Where to start... Oh! right here:

We've had this for years but now wife wants dead ac working. Clutch was fragged so got new. May have done damage w puller-Oldheimer retired mechanic didn't pull tin cover over snap ring(DUH). After removing very hard to turn w wrench. After installing clutch suddenly freed up. Except for tight spot that can be rattled through. I'm sure it shouldn't feel like that so guess new pump needed.

Ok so you put the big puller on the clutch, and went after it like the lug nuts on a 10 wheel dump truck with an impact wrench. Pushed the little shaft back far enough to drop needles out of the thrust bearing.

The TXV should be removed for flushing if it is needed.. But first, put the 36 inch pipe wrench & 5 lb hammer down. If you keep going at this like you are breaking track on an M60 tank it will be expensive.

TXV systems are usually clean on that side of things unless he dessicant bag has failed. You need a new dryer anyway, so locate that first. Remove it from the system & examine both the inlet & outlet for debris, corrosion etc. Drill a small (1/8") in the bottom of it & collect any oil that drains out. Is it clean? how much oil is there?

ARA systems usually had some flare fittings. Sometimes hoses with worm drive clamps, sometimes crimped lines. A leak someplace is almost a given with the age of this system.

The biggest concern is the condenser. It is most likely a tube & fin arrangement. ARA sometimes used the OEM part, sometimes not. The current replacement for the OEM is a nice 6mm Piccolo unit with O ring fittings. Can you post a pic of the condenser you have & it's fittings?

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Yes, BFH & puller set aside. As you can see in the photo my puller didn't do all that damage. I feel relieved in having found out a few answers about this unit. Will try to get unit out of rv for clean & flush. Needs some repair as both drain nipples are broken off. A video showed one fellow cut his dash in half to get things apart! If the hoses can be unhooked shouldn't need such extreme methods. It'll be interesting to see if valve has screen full of bits. Thanx guys.

Really no need to the pull the evaporator yet. Unless the housing is full of leaves & a dead mouse...

Check the receiver / dryer first. It acts as a filter of sorts. It needs to be replaced anyway.

Got the evap. out and stripped. Straightened some fins after removing/vacuuming the petrified thin foam covering-kind of like B&S pre-filter. Ordered TVX and drier on ebay. Had to get it out to fix the broken drains and remove valve to flush. I think condenser is stock compared to online pix. Is that thin foam needed and where would I find it?