Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Thu Sep 28, 2023 1:35 pm The clarifications you have offered are a help, but we have a ways to go.
1. Direction of rotation has not been clarified
"FYI: Civic engine rotates CCW. SDS508 Sanden spec is CW rotation because of gear engagement timing verses piston TDC. Timing has a large effect on compressor noise and may decrease compressor life 10% to 25% but pumping capacity is OK.
Chinese knockoff rotation unknown.
Sanden Singapore makes one model SD508 that is rated CCW only."
So based on the comp model you bought determine the specifications and thus whether it is a CCW or CW comp.

2. The amount of refrigerant will be close to the originally specified amount, no need to complicate things by trying to figure out the plateau method.
3. If you only damaged the condenser, why are you replacing the comp?
4. It is difficult to determine if the TXV is any good. That is why John is suggesting that you get a new one. And, yes, the bulb must be insulated. If it is wrapped in aluminum tape, that is only going to ADD heat to it, and not insulate it.

1. Yes the rotation of the Honda D15B3 is CCW, and as that old thread suggests, Chinese knockoff rotation unknown. I have never found any information about the rotation of my compressor, but I have never done a great research, do you think that can affect performance?
2. It doesn't matter that all the component are completely different from the OEM ones? this car came with no AC from the factory. I know that from the factory a civic 1990 came with 31oz of R12, but as you suggested on the first comment I may be overcharged with 24oz, and actually I did remove some refrigerant from the system, I don't have a recovery machine so I don't know how much, but the temperature dropped about 2°C, so I suppose that the correct amount of refrigerant is not near from the OEM specs, what do you think?.
3. No, I just replaced the condenser, not the compressor.
4. Good to know that, I will try to get some of that special tape, and talking about the block TXV, do you think it would be a good idea?, I ask because it does not have a sensing bulb, so it would be one less problem, and I'm talking from my ignorance, I don't know anything about TXVs, just the basic principles on how they work.

Here are some picture.

#8 at the top #6 at the bottom.
Distance between compressor and exhaust.
Hole in the firewall.

Forget the block type valve.
You need to determine the direction of rotation, this is very important. Your engine is CCW!
You keep thinking also that it is the amount of charge that is wrong with your system. Not really so.
You have way too many other issues to sort out.

Re-read everyone's posts...they are trying to help you...all of the issues discussed must be addressed, they are all big important issues.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Thu Sep 28, 2023 2:25 pm Forget the block type valve.
You need to determine the direction of rotation, this is very important. Your engine is CCW!
You keep thinking also that it is the amount of charge that is wrong with your system. Not really so.
You have way too many other issues to sort out.

Re-read everyone's posts...they are trying to help you...all of the issues discussed must be addressed, they are all big important issues.

Ok, I'll forget the block type TXV.

About the compressor, It is really hard to find info about this compressor, even the people of the store didn't know those details about the compressor, because I asked them about the rotation back in 2022. But I guess that most likely it is CW, I don't know why but I guess. But someone told me once that some of these universal compressors can spin in both directon and that there is no problem, but I don't know.

Ok, so I guess I have to leave the refrigerant amount alone for a moment, and pay more attention to insulate the compressor and to address the issue with the TXV right?

By the way, the picture is not from my actual compressor, because mine is not a V belt, but it is the same chinesse 508.

No one should ever doubt what Ice-N-Tropics says about Sanden compressors.

This aligns with over 30 years of buying palettes of 508 (Sanden or Import) compressors for aftermarket kits. Went on every MFG and every side of the eng, one could think has been available.

Our compressor company responded.

Is a piston. It goes either way

---

All these pages of posts, what are the pressure readings again? Let's not forget things like hot water in the heater core. Hot air bypasses the core. There are so many things to be addressed before spending hours on a charge level. Chasing rabbits when you do not have a base because refrigerant is here, no here now, is a horrible way to determine a system issue. If you playing with refrigerant, weigh it and write down the results. If you make a change, reclaim, weigh it write down the results.

This is the basics of a 9825 Sanden or Import.

SD508 EAR FG V A2 132MM 12V

Cylinder Head: FG
Volts: 12
Grooves: 2
Port Orientation: Vertical
Mount Type: Ear
Compressor Type: SD508
Gauge: 39.55
Refrigerant: R12
Pulley Ridge Diam.: 132
Ports: 3/4"x7/8"

Well, with that being said, I guess that It is clear that the compressor rotation it's not that important.

And yes, I get what you say, I'm not a technician just a young DIYer, and I'm learning on the way, slow, but learning.

I have completely disconnected the heater core from the cooling system, just in case.

I still have to insulate the compressor to see what happens, and to get the special tape for the sensing bulb, or replace the TXV.

Is there something else de you think I'm missing?

What refrigerant are you using?? R12 or R134 ??

I just noticed the charging ports on your comp are R12 ports.
Also, the data that Tim came up with just above shows the comp is designed to use R12.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:37 am What refrigerant are you using?? R12 or R134 ??

I just noticed the charging ports on your comp are R12 ports.
Also, the data that Tim came up with just above shows the comp is designed to use R12.

I'm using R134, and my compressor is for r134

T-Bird a simple oil swap, and these are good with either refrigerant. Should have conversion fittings on these, as required by law if you're running R134a.

"Should have conversion fittings on these"
That is why I asked...