Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

I've noticed that the price of barrier hose and reduced barrier hose is not all that much different. In my case, I don't need much of it at all. Maybe two feet of #8 and two feet of #10/#12. At the moment, I'm not 100% sure what size I need.

Here is #10 barrier hose on Tim's website:

https://www.ackits.com/index.php?route= ... t_id=11986


Here is #10 reduced barrier hose on Tim's website:

https://www.ackits.com/index.php?route= ... t_id=11999

Kinda crazy that his reduced barrier #10 is less expensive than his standard barrier #10.

I liked the idea of the reduced barrier since it is smaller in OD. From what I understand, it can bend a little bit easier. Probably not too important in my case since both of the hoses that I need to make are pretty much straight.

tbird, thank you for your crimping description. I did see some of those "crimping distance from the end of the ferrule" dimensions during my online research but it's good for a beginner with zero AC hose building experience like me to see/read it again!

I didn't see any crimpers on Tim's website but I'll send him an email and ask if he carries them.

We only offer the full hydraulic high-end ATCO crimper.

Check the tool stores for a Mastercool 71550. I can't beat their price.

Tim wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 1:39 pm We only offer the full hydraulic high-end ATCO crimper.

Check the tool stores for a Mastercool 71550. I can't beat their price.

Ok. Thank you, Tim!

As far as hose sizes go, here is the list:

from evap back to comp use #10
from comp to condenser use #8
from cond to receiver dryer use #6
from R/D to to evap use #6
This is for TXV system.

For accum system, there will be no F/D.
The accum. is inserted into the low side line (#10) usually near the firewall on the passenger side

There is a super book out there, "How to AC your hot rod" (or any car for that matter). It would be a super resource for you.
Just remember that the 71550 unit will need to have the base mounted in a vice

tbird, thank you for all of that information!


My OEM Ford AC is an accumulator system. The OEM Ford accumulator had a large suction line going to the compressor mounted on the driver's side of the engine. Here is a link from Tim's website:

https://www.ackits.com/index.php?route= ... t_id=29577

That hose will not work with my LS setup that mounts the compressor on the passenger side of the engine. I have a link to a picture of the accumulator that I purchased for my project in my first post in this thread but I think it didn't play nice with your computer. Tim doesn't carry the accumulator (mine) on his website. Other than that picture of mine in post #1, the only way I can provide another picture is to link from another online seller of the UAC brand accumulator. If this isn't allowed, I understand if the link gets removed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uac-rd7155c

It's very easy to see the barbed fitting that I've mentioned several times in this thread. I've measured that barbed fitting and it is 5/8" OD. I thought that I'd read that 5/8" equates to a #12 barrier hose.

Way back around 2007 when I bought all of my basic auto AC equipment from Tim, I got a nice auto AC book in the kit. It's not the same book that you mentioned but the book was very informative and I still have it.

There is an error in the post I made about hose sizes. I have corrected it in the original post.

Also in the tables I use a hose ID of 5/8 equates to a #12 hose. I am trying to post that table.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 11:55 am There is an error in the post I made about hose sizes. I have corrected it in the original post.

Also in the tables I use a hose ID of 5/8 equates to a #12 hose. I am trying to post that table.

Yes. That is my understanding.

BTW, I'm planning on buying a hydraulic AC hose crimper not the manually operated type that needs to be bench mounted. I've watched several youTube videos of guys using them and they're easy to use and they seem to work well.

Furthermore, avoid Ford's springlock system, it is junk.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 8:25 pm Furthermore, avoid Ford's springlock system, it is junk.

Way back around 2007 when I converted my previous Mustang (1991 GT) to R134a, I had a springlock issue. It cooled well and worked perfectly for a day or two. Then one day I jump in the car, start it up and there is no cold air! I shut the engine down, open the hood and find that one of my springlock fittings had come completely apart ! Needless to say, when I redid the system again, I paid a lot of attention making sure that the springlocks were seated completely in place and actually locked.