Automotive AC Repair and Discussion topics.
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I never mentioned John, i specifically said you were. I tried to include all detail in my first post and you didnt even bother to read it carefully. Your reply asked me questions that i have already stated in the initial post and you have the audacity to tell me im repeating myself.Im not even going to waste time with you anymore, youre not even helpful nor you seem to be a state of helping others without feeling above everyone.tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 9:32 pm We are trying really really hard to help, and I am sorry you feel we are insulting you. I myself am done giving advice, since you are not using any of it. John and I have said the same thing over and over. And there was no answer to whether you purged the air from the hoses. You are getting upset because you happen to not like the advice you are getting.
I dont think hes that well equipped in AC department, i think he only does regular repairs out of his garage. Im thinking calling local ac shop see what they can do. As for the air getting in, i do bleed the center hose before recharging but i think i forgot the last time i did it but it was brief like for 30 seconds. I was researching around and found this site regarding diagnosing gauge readings. https://www.perrinmfg.com/resources/gauge-diagnosticsJohnHere wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 8:32 pm Does your mechanic neighbor have the proper equipment to leak-check, evacuate, and recharge the system to specs--a good electronic leak detector, vacuum pump, refrigerant scale, and digital thermometer?
To me, the low-side pressures have looked good since your first post, but the high side has been elevated, apparently ever since topping-off the refrigerant--because of an overcharge or other factors.
Air, a non-condensable gas--along with moisture from humidity in the air--could also cause the elevated high-side pressures as already mentioned if there was air in the Manifold Gauge Set and charging hoses that wasn't purged. Of course, any air and moisture in the system will compromise cooling.
It's also very difficult, at best, to top-off a system like that without knowing the exact total weight of refrigerant put in. So it's always best to begin with a thorough evacuation and recharge (for your car, it's 21 ounces net weight of R-134a), along with a receiver/dryer change.
If I were a betting man, I'd wager that once you get the system evacuated and recharged to the exact amount, and barring any leaks or other problems, it'll cool like new.