Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

UPDATE 13 March 2025

Figuring I didn't have much to lose, I went ahead and charged the system with r134a. I know, I know... impatience will cost money down the line BUT the system worked. 38*F at the vents on a 94* day with 80ish humidity (if my weather app is to be trusted).

My next step is to get it evacuated, and then I'm going to do a proper job on the system. New hoses. Flush. New drier. Possibly move over to a parallel flow condenser. So I have two follow up questions:

1) I'm inclined to buy a crimper and rebuild the hoses myself. I've gotten quotes from online sources that can rebuild the hoses (using original fittings) for $600-700. I think i can do it myself for less (or at least the same). Any opinions on that?

2) The compressor is original and apparently still works. Should I just flush it, oil it and send it, or is it worth looking into a rebuild/seal kit?

Thanks again for the straight talk / guidance y'all provide.

Norm in NC

1. You certainly can make-up your own barrier hoses, but how much it will cost, I can't say. Tim at ACKits.com, this Forum's sponsor, can provide the appropriate tooling, then add-in the cost of materials, whatever they might be.

2. Note that you can't solvent-flush a compressor. Only multiple flushes with PAG or POE oil should be done. If I were you, I'd replace the compressor with a new one, along with all the other parts as mentioned, with the exception of the evaporator, which can be solvent-flushed in situ, making sure to remove the TXV beforehand.

JohnHere wrote: Thu Mar 13, 2025 6:23 am 1. You certainly can make-up your own barrier hoses, but how much it will cost, I can't say. Tim at ACKits.com, this Forum's sponsor, can provide the appropriate tooling, then add-in the cost of materials, whatever they might be.

2. Note that you can't solvent-flush a compressor. Only multiple flushes with PAG or POE oil should be done. If I were you, I'd replace the compressor with a new one, along with all the other parts as mentioned, with the exception of the evaporator, which can be solvent-flushed in situ, making sure to remove the TXV beforehand.

We only carry the high-end ATCO Crimper, which is usually not a DIY item.

Any suggestions as to a good DIY crimper?

A USA company makes a good manual crimper complete with the most commonly used dies, model number 71550, for less than $200, although dies for reduced barrier hoses are extra-cost options.

The manual style is slower than the more costly hydraulic variants. But for home use, the former should be fully adequate. Then figure-in the cost of the hoses and miscellaneous hardware that you would need.