Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

tbirdtbird,
Can you tell me what the procedure is for that? This is with the vehicle off right?

Tbirdtbird,
Can you tell me what the procedure is for that? This is with the vehicle off, right?

robertmk74 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2024 7:25 amI saw a video online where a guy had a listening wand of some sort.....anyone have an idea where I could purchase one? Has headphones and a wand, so you can stick it down around the AC components to listen for leaks....

You could try a piece of rubber hose as a stethoscope.

And maybe try soap bubbles !

Yes, with the engine off.
The procedure is no more complicated than I already described.
You would need to buy or borrow a refrigerant sniffer. It is an electronic device. Tim the board sponsor can get them (www.ackits.com)
Or you could go online. They can detect a leak as small as 1/4 oz per year.
Frankly, to me, the other methods are archaic .

It's also possible that the clutch isn't engaging due to a too-wide clutch gap. If you have room to insert a feeler gauge to measure the gap, the specification is about 0.020" for most vehicles. If it's more than that, the electromagnetic windings inside the clutch might not have sufficient "pull" to overcome the larger-than-spec gap. The remedy is to remove the bolt at the front, remove the clutch plate, and remove one or more shims to close the gap. Another issue could be that the windings themselves are defective somehow and unable to pull-in the clutch plates and thus engage the compressor.

UPDATE:
I found the leaks in my AC system. The UV dye showed up when looking with a UV light. Found a pretty good ding in the front of the condenser and also a huge leak spot right underneath the compressor. So I will be replacing the compressor and condenser.
I am planning on replacing receiver/dryer, expansion valve, and AC line from condenser to compressor as well. Am I missing anything?

Also, thanks for all the response. Very much appreciated!

Glad you found the leaks. Since you'll be replacing the compressor assembly anyway, the clutch air gap will be set correctly from the factory.

ACKits.com can supply the best parts at the best prices.

Replace the R/D last to minimize its exposure to air and moisture. Use a little Nylog Blue on each o-ring and gasket as you reassemble everything to ensure the system remains leak free.

Ok, thanks. I am getting a list ready to order for parts, and the one question I can't seem to find an answer to
is "does my 2008 Ford Escape 3.0 LTD have an orifice tube?" I know it has an expansion valve, which I will be replacing. But I can't
find out if it has an orifice tube also.

Does your car have front and rear A/C (rear evaporator)? If so, then it most likely has an OT in the front and a block-type TXV in the rear. If it has front A/C only, then it most likely has a block-type TXV in the front since it does have a R/D and not an accumulator.