Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

Yeah Tim, he had about 20 ounces in it with hoses, connection losses etc. High side was ok, and the TXV was working with a 22 psi low side.

The condenser is not looking like a great performer right now.

bohica2xo wrote: ↑Tue Jul 11, 2023 3:00 pm Yeah Tim, he had about 20 ounces in it with hoses, connection losses etc. High side was ok, and the TXV was working with a 22 psi low side.

The condenser is not looking like a great performer right now.

Not the largest condenser I've seen. Make sure there is proper air flow.

G3664S

A strange thing with this jeep is the condenser seems to also be the trans cooler. There are trans lines going to it. I wonder if that doesn't also hurt the performance of the condenser, to have 160 degree fluid going through it.

murdoc wrote: ↑Thu Jul 13, 2023 6:52 am A strange thing with this jeep is the condenser seems to also be the trans cooler. There are trans lines going to it. I wonder if that doesn't also hurt the performance of the condenser, to have 160 degree fluid going through it.

You are correct. The condenser does have an integral Transmission Oil Cooler (TOC) built into it. It DID work before, though, right? If so, it's possible that air could now be bypassing the condenser, as already mentioned, or the fan has become weak for some reason.

The water misting test should have done wonders. Did you just spray a little mist on there just enough to wet it and then stop? You need to have a constant mist of water because O/W it will just dry off rapidly.
Pressures should always be given at the conditions Bohica gave....1500-1800 RPM, etc. Pressures at idle mean nothing. The comp is not able to do much work at all at idle speed.
Electric fans get tired, I have replaced several. The condenser makes it all happen....it releases all the heat the system absorbed from the cabin back into the atmosphere.

Thanks guys. I did post the results doing the 1800 RPM test. And for the Mist test, it was more of a "shower". I have an adjustable hose nozzle and put it on shower mode with a constant stream going across it. Unfortunately I had to return the gauge set and vacuum to Autozone, so I can't run any more tests now. I may borrow the gages again in the future to troubleshoot more. But I think my next step is to save up $145 to have the system professionally recharged to see if that improves performance. Thank you for all your help! I will post a solution if I ever find the culprit.

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Your initial set of pressures look pretty good to me. Have you explored the possibility of a re-heating situation—that is, heated air improperly mixing into the refrigerated air?

I haven't explored it, as I don't know what that means. Sorry, could you please explain?

If the diverter doors in your under dash air box are not closing or sealing all the way, that can allow heated air from the heat circuit to mix with the cold air. The hot air will always win