Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

No Amazon, eBay, or outside vendor links on this site. Ask your questions, but keep the promotion links on that company's website. They don't pay the bills here.

Just for info, the valve core remover tool you posted is the kind that is used without recovering the system, I had in mind something way simpler that is similar to a stubby screwdriver with a notch cut in the end.
I am not sure what you posted could be adapted to a 3/16 fitting.
But regardless, to change the comp you will have to recover the system, so the fancy tool will not be needed
Here is the regular valve stem tool

That's funny. Youtube has a video on how to snip an image instead of linking to a page.

Tim, I thought my artwork was rather well done! Dave

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 6:21 pm Tim, I thought my artwork was rather well done! Dave

It was, snipping for those that don't have your talent.

Tim wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2022 3:30 pm No Amazon, eBay, or outside vendor links on this site. Ask your questions, but keep the promotion links on that company's website. They don't pay the bills here.

Ok, let's try this again

Attaching pics of the gauges I borrowed and the valve core removal tool and adapter that I **think** would work on the high side charge port. Would really appreciate the confirmation that I am on the right track here. In this adventure, I have also picked up a used TIFF-5550A leak detector. I am assuming just use it with the engine turned off?

If there are links to the items I need on Tim's site - please be all means, send them my way.

Thanks!

This is all you need for a core removal tool
Yes, you can use the TIFF engine off, better that way in case the engine fan would blow the leaking refrigerant away. Refrigerant is heavier than air, so sniff at the bottom of fittings. To sniff the evap (in car unit), go underneath car and sniff the drain tube.
I use a TIFF myself.
A quick test of the sniffer is to exhale on it at close range....that should set it off. Do not ask why...I have no clue. Since it is used, I would be doubly sure it works by sniffing a known source of refrigerant....often something that is leaking. Else you may be wasting your time going all around the system. But the sniffer is the way to go, for sure. Proceed carefully and be sure to test any alleged leak several times to get a confirmation.

For the parts you want, I would send Tim an email of what you are looking for and let him respond

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 5:16 pm
A quick test of the sniffer is to exhale on it at close range....that should set it off. Do not ask why...I have no clue. Since it is used, I would be doubly sure it works by sniffing a known source of refrigerant....often something that is leaking. Else you may be wasting your time going all around the system. But the sniffer is the way to go, for sure. Proceed carefully and be sure to test any alleged leak several times to get a confirmation.

I did the exhale test and it set it off. I also unscrewed the high side port and it went off (no surprise there), but also detected a very small leak on the low side. I can't hear it hiss out but it sure detected it right at the nipple of the schrader valve. It's too hot to really get into the engine, but quickly ran it across the hoses/compression fittings, at the condenser connections, accumulator and nothing! I went around the compressor front seal as best as I could and did not get a response. Maybe I have to remove the clutch and try it again?

Isn't it a better idea to replace these schrader cores with the tool that won't allow the refrigerant to be lost?

Thanks!

So you want to charge up a system that has a leak?
From first post:
" I can see dirt around the front seal of the Denso 6P148A compressor, so again, assuming it's leaking out of there."
You are likely quite right, when there is a leak, some oil leaks out as well and attracts dirt.

The way to check for a leak at the compressor shaft seal is to put a shower cap or other plastic bag over the comp (after removing the drive belt), and letting it sit overnight. Then poke your sniffer inside the bag.

Also, you did not state that you sniffed the water drain from the evap under the car. Evaps are FAMOUS for leaks, so you have only done half the testing that needs to be done.

Also, as stated, I am pretty sure that "hot swap" core changer will not fit the 3/16 port.

Where in So.Cal are you located? I'm in N. OC and have a set of R-12 gauges I would loan out if you need them as AutoZone does. Just a thought.