Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

DetroitAC wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 12:15 pm
They do almost always ship the compressor filled with the required oil amount for the full system. But 1st startup in the assembly plant is usually very special, takes place with the ECM being controlled at end of line tester, and they start the compressor with a sequence that gently, slowly pumps the oil out. I'd never fill one up for servicing.

Dunno. I'd missed the part in the manual where it says that a replacement compressor comes preinstalled with 150ml of oil. 20ml supposedly remains inside after draining. It doesn't say anything about a special procedure. I suspect I should have just added 130ml rather than adding into various places.

I had a mild scare as I couldn't get the compressor to start and had visions that I'd damaged the wiring harness when I removed the compressor. Only about 1/5th of the 12oz can had flowed and then it stopped. I'd been running the AC for 30 mins and the compressor would not start. I was tightening the valve on the can tap to seal it when suddenly I heard the refrigerant flowing again, pressure on gauges jumped and the compressor started and the can started to empty. I suspect the valve on the can tap was being goofy.

Anyways, all back together. Wife said it AC on for her test drive was uncomfortably cold so she had to turn it off

Thank you for all the help. I'm not sure I really needed to ask the question as I think the correct procedure was in the service manual all the time but the replies here gave me the confidence.

When the dye kit comes I'll add some. Yes, it would have been a lot easier to just add some dye when I was switching between the two cans of R134a. Oh well, there is always "next time".

I found a TSB for the 13-15 model year to resolve this pressure pipe cracking. The clamp/bracket nearest the condenser gets discarded as it was making the pipe too ridgid. I don't have the bracket on my 16 model year though the clamp is still on the replacement pipe .... I guess the fix didn't entirely stop the cracking issue. Hopefully it won't occur again.

Thanks again!

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:40 pm Dunno. I'd missed the part in the manual where it says that a replacement compressor comes preinstalled with 150ml of oil. 20ml supposedly remains inside after draining. It doesn't say anything about a special procedure. I suspect I should have just added 130ml rather than adding into various places.

I never heard that 20ml of oil remains inside. Some residue, yes, but not that much. Normally, what I do for every new compressor is to empty the new compressor of oil and measure it, regardless of what is said about the pre-installed amount. If it matches what I drain out...great. In any event, I go by the specs for the vehicle I'm working on and install that amount, distributing the oil to the major components (oil balancing) as previously described. I never had a problem doing it that way since the early 1960's. So I think any concern about that is unfounded.

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:40 pm I had a mild scare as I couldn't get the compressor to start and had visions that I'd damaged the wiring harness when I removed the compressor. Only about 1/5th of the 12oz can had flowed and then it stopped. I'd been running the AC for 30 mins and the compressor would not start. I was tightening the valve on the can tap to seal it when suddenly I heard the refrigerant flowing again, pressure on gauges jumped and the compressor started and the can started to empty. I suspect the valve on the can tap was being goofy.

I doubt it was the valve. The compressor shutting off could have been due to the thermistor on the evaporator sensing that the evap was approaching freezing. Also, once the system pressure reaches about 70 PSI with the compressor off, the refrigerant will stop flowing out of the can because the can pressure is about the same. After the evap temperature rose, the compressor re-started, and the low-side pressure dropped below the can pressure, charging could resume.

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:40 pm Anyways, all back together. Wife said it AC on for her test drive was uncomfortably cold so she had to turn it off

That's a great barometer of a correctly operating system

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:40 pm When the dye kit comes I'll add some. Yes, it would have been a lot easier to just add some dye when I was switching between the two cans of R134a. Oh well, there is always "next time".

Doing that should be easy with the dye kit you have on order.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:37 pm
I doubt it was the valve. The compressor shutting off could have been due to the thermistor on the evaporator sensing that the evap was approaching freezing. Also, once the system pressure reaches about 70 PSI with the compressor off, the refrigerant will stop flowing out of the can because the can pressure is about the same. After the evap temperature rose, the compressor re-started, and the low-side pressure dropped below the can pressure, charging could resume.

Compressor never started. I opened the valve and the pressure on the low gauge jumped to maybe 20. I started the car, turned A/C on full (fan full) but wouldn't go any higher. Only about 1/5 of the first can of R134a had gone in. Was like this for 30 minutes. The air from the vents wasn't cold (obviously). I tried turning it to heat mode (a/c on), I turned the car off and on. I closed and reopened the valves on the gauges. Nothing. It was about 60 degrees temperature, 50% humidity.

Finally I started to close the valve on the can tap and suddenly I could hear refrigerant flowing again. The pressure jumped up and the compressor started for the first time and pulled the gauge reading down.

I have no idea if it's correct at this point. I got the full 12oz of the first can in and 3oz of the second can. Compressor was running most of the time.

I don't recall what the gauges were reading. Should I hook them up again? Based on this chart I should be seeing 22-29 low 129-168 high. 60 degrees is as low as the system allows you to set the temp.

A/C seems to be working fine, at least based on temperature coming from the vents.

I pulled vacuum for 1 hour, then left it for an hour. Then 4 hours and left it overnight (was > 30 in AM). Then for an hour before I added the R134.

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:54 pm Finally I started to close the valve on the can tap and suddenly I could hear refrigerant flowing again. The pressure jumped up and the compressor started for the first time and pulled the gauge reading down.

Thanks for clarifying. Sounds like it was the can-tap valve acting up.

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:54 pm I have no idea if it's correct at this point. I got the full 12oz of the first can in and 3oz of the second can. Compressor was running most of the time.
I don't recall what the gauges were reading. Should I hook them up again? What should I expect to see?
A/C seems to be working fine, at least based on temperature coming from the vents.

You must have come very close to what the charge should be--.425kg or 15 ounces. Remember that the system loses a little refrigerant every time you hook-up the gauges. Since it's cooling well now, I'd leave it alone.

I'm curious as to what the center vent temps are.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 2:17 pm

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:54 pm I have no idea if it's correct at this point. I got the full 12oz of the first can in and 3oz of the second can. Compressor was running most of the time.
I don't recall what the gauges were reading. Should I hook them up again? What should I expect to see?
A/C seems to be working fine, at least based on temperature coming from the vents.

You must have come very close to what the charge should be--.425kg or 15 ounces. Remember that the system loses a little refrigerant every time you hook-up the gauges. Since it's cooling well now, I'd leave it alone.

I'm curious as to what the center vent temps are.

I hooked up the gauges. Car was 75 inside and I brought it down to 45 (using a thermometer next to the vent) in about 15 mins.

I was reading 23/140 on the gauges when it was reading 45 inside with compressor running. I think I'm good.

dorkshoei wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 2:31 pm I hooked up the gauges. Car was 75 inside and I brought it down to 45 (using a thermometer next to the vent) in about 15 mins.
I was reading 23/140 on the gauges when it was reading 45 inside with compressor running. I think I'm good.

Pressures seem a bit on the low side although the vent air temp looks pretty good. For reference, what was the actual ambient temperature? If it was 70F or below, I suggest waiting for the temperature to rise above 80F so that you can test the system under maximum heat load.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 2:50 pm For reference, what was the actual ambient temperature? If it was 70F or below

70. I'll reconnect gauges when it's 80+ air temp and report back.

Thanks again!

Hi

I would like to know if there is only one dryer that build in with the condenser on the leaf or if there’s a second dryer away from the first receiver/dryer?

Many thanks

A.

You didn't post the year of your Leaf. Regardless, for a 2018 model year Leaf, the R/D is attached to but not integral with the condenser. So the entire R/D on a 2018 Leaf is replaceable separately from the condenser in the usual manner. To my knowledge, there is no other R/D downstream from the one mentioned.

Sorry it’s a 2020 leaf SV plus