Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

If that "miracle in a can" stuff has sealer, then all bets are off. The sealer will ruin the AC system, it gums everything up requiring a total overhaul

I know they do sell seperate cans of sealer which is mixed with a little charge but the stuff I got was just charge. Might have a little oil in it. Seems marketing is doing a disservice to the public in the way some of this stuff is basically said to be just a cure all. I'm leaning I might get someone else to charge it. But first I need it to stop leaking and hold a vacuum long enough so I know it's not a waste of money. Gonna wait until the evening when it gets dark and use the UV flashlight and Google's to check for leaks. It had dye in it before I touched anything so maybe the previous owners were looking for leaks? The ac did seem to work when we bought the car. Does UV dye fade or if it's there it's there? I'm certain some would wash off over time. Wouldn't it?

It will fade.
I keep thinking about what I would do if I were in Canada (glad I'm not).
I think I charge up 1/2 can of the HC refrigerant and work very carefully, ie no open flames, no smoking, etc. What else can you do?
There are HC sniffers available
https://www.amazon.com/Detector-Batteri ... 149&sr=8-2
The freon detectors do not seem to list HC detection, just halogen detection
https://www.amazon.com/Elitech-HLD-200- ... 48&sr=8-18
These are just examples, there are many models of both types available.
Once you locate and fix the leak, just allow the HC to leak out and have a pro shop charge it, but include a dye pack.

If there is another way to deal with this foolishness, I would encourage someone to post it
OK, just looked at an official Canadian halocarbon site
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-cl ... stems.html
These methods do not involve release of halocarbons:
"The following leak detection methods, depending on the type of system, are acceptable: electronic test, soap and bubble test, ultrasonic test, test with UV light for fluorescent dye. A standing vacuum test or a standing nitrogen pressure test will also suffice."
SO, it would seem dye testing and nitrogen testing would be more desirable than using HC

Once you put HC in it it's basically contaminated and shops won't want to charge it with r134a.

Were it I, I'd rig up a nitrogen testing station. It would not be that expensive, and you would be able to test other cars down the road for a long time on just one nitrogen bottle

I wish I had an easy solution for the R-134a dilemma other than going to a professional MVAC shop to have it recharged after you fix the leaks, as you mentioned. Also, I'm sure you're aware that there might be more than one leak.

Since you're in Canada where the winters tend to be severe, carefully check those metal lines--especially the ones down low--for signs of corrosion and pinhole leaks caused by the ice melting chemicals used on the roads.

AircooledAndy wrote: ↑Sun May 15, 2022 5:55 pm Once you put HC in it it's basically contaminated and shops won't want to charge it with r134a.

It's the same here in the USA. It creates problems for the pro shops' RRR machines and filters, not to mention the US EPA, so they won't work on a vehicle with an HC refrigerant in the system.

I appreciate all the help but I think this is getting more involved than originally expected. If I do proceed I'll just take it to a shop. Albeit this was more just fix it for one more summer. This is my parents car and they have a roundabout way of realizing vehicles need to be replaced or to just stop driving altogether. Its not a complete loss as I can use the equipment on my own car when the time arises. Learned lots. Thanks.