R134 added to R12 system

[GREMLIN]

Ladies, Gentlemen, Have a situation. Was having some work done on a 90 1.6L 220k mi. Mazda & Tech says very little R12 escaped while he was working on a coolant line. Says he took the protective cap off to get at a coolant line, and hit the Schrader valve a couple times. A/C worked fine prior to the shop work. I understand the shop charged the system with R134. Worked very well for two days then zilch. Pressure tested with nitrogen, found a leak in the condenser. Gonna have a new condenser, dryer, & R12 installed/charged. Tech did not mention a flush for the 134, nor changing the oil in the compressor. Should I be concerned about the compressor oil & system flush?? I understand our local NAPA has R12 for sale to a certified tech, and I'd like to stay with R12 unless there is a reason not to. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

[Cusser]

1. Very "coincidental" that AC worked fine before such repair and now you have a condenser leak.

2. I thought a tech would know that it was not good to add R134a to an R-12 system, and if a tech converts to R134a that there needs to be a sticker stating that. Did tech actually add R134a through R-12 shrader valves on your Mazda, or did he add R134a Acme adapters?

[GREMLIN]

Through the Schrader Valve. No adapters. Said it would be fine.

[Cusser]

Ladies, Gentlemen, Have a situation. Was having some work done on a 90 1.6L 220k mi. Mazda & Tech says very little R12 escaped while he was working on a coolant line. Says he took the protective cap off to get at a coolant line, and hit the Schrader valve a couple times. A/C worked fine prior to the shop work. I understand the shop charged the system with R134. Worked very well for two days then zilch. Pressure tested with nitrogen, found a leak in the condenser. Gonna have a new condenser, dryer, & R12 installed/charged. Tech did not mention a flush for the 134, nor changing the oil in the compressor. Should I be concerned about the compressor oil & system flush?? I understand our local NAPA has R12 for sale to a certified tech, and I'd like to stay with R12 unless there is a reason not to. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Through the Schrader Valve. No adapters. Said it would be fine.

I don't like any of this, smells very fishy, if he added R134a (unknown amount), did not flush out oil or add compatible oil, added through the R-12 shraeder valve, and condenser suddenly got a hole, So I think the tech bypassed EPA or similar regulations, as well as AC sense. I would replace what you suggested, and stay R-12. Good luck.

I still run R-12 in my '88 Mazda truck.

[Tim]

Is the system working now?

You've mixed refrigerants. So if working, don;t mess with it and wait until it fails. Then clean system and go back to R12.

[GREMLIN]

Is the system working now?

You've mixed refrigerants. So if working, don;t mess with it and wait until it fails. Then clean system and go back to R12.

No not working now. Worked two days real good then nothing. Compressor does not engage unless the pressure switch is shorted/ jumped.
This guy was not the first tech to tell me they just add R134. I'd like to find a tech in the Colorado Springs, Co area that could flush & charge the system with R12.

[GREMLIN]

Ladies, Gentlemen, Have a situation. Was having some work done on a 90 1.6L 220k mi. Mazda & Tech says very little R12 escaped while he was working on a coolant line. Says he took the protective cap off to get at a coolant line, and hit the Schrader valve a couple times. A/C worked fine prior to the shop work. I understand the shop charged the system with R134. Worked very well for two days then zilch. Pressure tested with nitrogen, found a leak in the condenser. Gonna have a new condenser, dryer, & R12 installed/charged. Tech did not mention a flush for the 134, nor changing the oil in the compressor. Should I be concerned about the compressor oil & system flush?? I understand our local NAPA has R12 for sale to a certified tech, and I'd like to stay with R12 unless there is a reason not to. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Through the Schrader Valve. No adapters. Said it would be fine.

I don't like any of this, smells very fishy, if he added R134a (unknown amount), did not flush out oil or add compatible oil, added through the R-12 shraeder valve, and condenser suddenly got a hole, So I think the tech bypassed EPA or similar regulations, as well as AC sense. I would replace what you suggested, and stay R-12. Good luck.

I still run R-12 in my '88 Mazda truck.

Exactly why I'm looking for Looking for someone in the Colorado Springs area that does automotive AC correctly. I've heard "Just add R134" more than once.

[Cusser]

Shorted the pressure switch and compressor engages? And you had leakage? I think that you still have a leak.

My guess is that some shop in Colorado Springs area will be able to do R-12 - the refrigerant must match your refrigerant oil - call independent shops, see if there's a real AC shop around, even try Denver if necessary.

Check with classic car clubs nad see what they do, and I know in Phoenix area that my own mechanic's independent shop still does R-12, as does the local radio show mechanic's shop.

[GREMLIN]

Shorted the pressure switch and compressor engages? And you had leakage? I think that you still have a leak.

My guess is that some shop in Colorado Springs area will be able to do R-12 - the refrigerant must match your refrigerant oil - call independent shops, see if there's a real AC shop around, even try Denver if necessary.

Check with classic car clubs nad see what they do, and I know in Phoenix area that my own mechanic's independent shop still does R-12, as does the local radio show mechanic's shop.

Original Post: Pressure tested with nitrogen, found a leak in the condenser. Gonna have a new condenser, dryer, & R12 installed/charged. Tech did not mention a flush for the 134, nor changing the oil in the compressor. Should I be concerned about the compressor oil & a system flush??