I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. The AC system does not provide any cooling from the ambient air. I finally got a chance to start diagnosing it yesterday and my immediate issue is the compressor is locked in the engaged position. The pulley is still spinning so it isn't damaging the belts. Before I popped on a new compressor I hooked up the gauges and both read 60 psi.
I'm thinking that something inside the compressor is faulty which is allowing it to spin without generating pressure. I also have only owned the car for the drive home of about 150 miles from point of purchase and I don't know if the previous owner tried to charge the system themselves.
I have a shop that will evacuate the system for me. My plan is to have them evacuate the system and then bring it back home to pull a vacuum on it to check for leaks. If I don't find any leaks I'll replace the compressor. Is it worth it to replace the condenser and the drier while I have everything open. Then I can go back to the shop to have them charge the system.
I'm wondering if there are any other checks I should do before I pull out the refrigerant, or if I'm way off on my thought process?
Compressor clutch locked on and gauges read the same
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Re: Compressor clutch locked on and gauges read the same
How many miles has your Corolla logged?
Is the static pressure (engine and compressor not running) 60 PSI on both the high side and low side? Or, did you record those pressures with the compressor running? Also, what was the ambient temperature when you recorded those pressures?
Be aware that a system might not leak under vacuum, but it might leak under pressure—especially on the high side.
Typically, the manufacturers of a new or rebuilt compressors require that the condenser and Receiver/Dryer (R/D) be replaced at the same time to maintain the factory warranty on the compressor.
If the clutch is shot, and possibly the compressor, it's often cost-comparable to purchase a new clutch-and-compressor assembly.
The OE for the A/C system in your car is Denso.
Let's see if my understanding is correct. The A/C clutch is stuck "engaged" and the engine (whenever it's running) continuously rotates the compressor mainshaft whether the A/C system is switched on or switched off—is that right?casey_kreilein wrote: Thu Jul 03, 2025 6:29 am I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. The AC system does not provide any cooling from the ambient air. I finally got a chance to start diagnosing it yesterday and my immediate issue is the compressor is locked in the engaged position. The pulley is still spinning so it isn't damaging the belts. Before I popped on a new compressor I hooked up the gauges and both read 60 psi.
Is the static pressure (engine and compressor not running) 60 PSI on both the high side and low side? Or, did you record those pressures with the compressor running? Also, what was the ambient temperature when you recorded those pressures?
Do you know any of the history of service to the A/C system?casey_kreilein wrote: Thu Jul 03, 2025 6:29 am I'm thinking that something inside the compressor is faulty which is allowing it to spin without generating pressure. I also have only owned the car for the drive home of about 150 miles from point of purchase and I don't know if the previous owner tried to charge the system themselves.
I think you mean "recover" the refrigerant instead of "evacuate," which is the correct and proper way to proceed before the system is opened for any repairs.casey_kreilein wrote: Thu Jul 03, 2025 6:29 am I have a shop that will evacuate the system for me. My plan is to have them evacuate the system and then bring it back home to pull a vacuum on it to check for leaks. If I don't find any leaks I'll replace the compressor. Is it worth it to replace the condenser and the drier while I have everything open. Then I can go back to the shop to have them charge the system.
Be aware that a system might not leak under vacuum, but it might leak under pressure—especially on the high side.
Typically, the manufacturers of a new or rebuilt compressors require that the condenser and Receiver/Dryer (R/D) be replaced at the same time to maintain the factory warranty on the compressor.
If the clutch is shot, and possibly the compressor, it's often cost-comparable to purchase a new clutch-and-compressor assembly.
The OE for the A/C system in your car is Denso.
Member – MACS (Mobile Air Climate Systems Association)
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Re: Compressor clutch locked on and gauges read the same
There are just under 140,000 miles on the engine.
You are correct in that the compressor continuously rotates the mainshaft whenever the engine is running. The psi was with the engine running, but I did not record the ambient temperature but it was probably in the mid 80's based on the last couple days.
I have no idea about the service of the vehicle. The only thing I know is it was purchased by an elderly lady in 2017 who drove it until sometime in 2022 when she moved into a nursing home. I only know this because it was the last time the vehicle was registered. She passed last August and the heir sold it to me a couple days ago.
You are correct in that I used the incorrect term of "evacuate" instead of "recover. I have access to a Self-Help Auto Skill Center through the Army that has HVAC service equipment for Soldier's use.
Thank you for the info about the system leaking under pressure. Makes sense but it never crossed my mind.
I did some research today and realized I will replace the condenser and receiver/dryer as well.
Is there a way I can test the expansion valve to see if it needs to be replaced as well while I have the system open?
You are correct in that the compressor continuously rotates the mainshaft whenever the engine is running. The psi was with the engine running, but I did not record the ambient temperature but it was probably in the mid 80's based on the last couple days.
I have no idea about the service of the vehicle. The only thing I know is it was purchased by an elderly lady in 2017 who drove it until sometime in 2022 when she moved into a nursing home. I only know this because it was the last time the vehicle was registered. She passed last August and the heir sold it to me a couple days ago.
You are correct in that I used the incorrect term of "evacuate" instead of "recover. I have access to a Self-Help Auto Skill Center through the Army that has HVAC service equipment for Soldier's use.
Thank you for the info about the system leaking under pressure. Makes sense but it never crossed my mind.
I did some research today and realized I will replace the condenser and receiver/dryer as well.
Is there a way I can test the expansion valve to see if it needs to be replaced as well while I have the system open?