Noise after AC service

[freakyhead94]

New compressor is already on it's way. I might not change it right away, but either if the old one dies or if the rattling gets too annoying for me.

I think in the video it does not sound as bad as real.

If I change it, I will flush everything, new accumulator, again new orifice tube...

I'll keep you updated! Thanks again

[tbirdtbird]

Be careful. If it dies while running (implodes), then shrapnel will be sent downstream and highly contaminate everything up to the expansion device. Meaning you will be looking at a lot of work and expense, including a new condenser. A real nightmare.

[freakyhead94]

Alright, since I kind of like working on my own cars and the parts arrived (and my mechanics next possible appointment is in 3 months ), I took a look at my engine to see what else I will need before I tear the AC apart. Btw: I noticed the compressor housing looking pretty dirty, also the belt tensioner has greasy dirt on it next to the AC pulley, also the coolant expansion tank. Maybe this is exactly the problem, the compressor is slowly loosing oil and now is going bad.

Original plan was:
-flush evap, condenser and lines
-replace compressor and orifice tube
-install the correct amount of oil (6oz) along with new o-rings
-install new accumulator as last step to avoid it collecting all the moisture from the air
-vacuum down the system to check for leaks
-if leakfree, leave the system under vacuum until I can get it charged

However, before I even started I took the vacuum pump and gauge set and played with them to get familiar with them since I never used those tools. With the gauge set hanging, not connected to the car, the needle only gets down to 24, maybe 25 inhg vacuum. After closing the valves and shutting the pump off, the vacuum does not drop. So the hoses and gauges seem not to leak. If I only turn the pump off, leaving the valves open, the vacuum still does not drop, so the connection to the pump does not leak as well.

So either the gauges are reading wrong, or the pump is junk. Altitude above sea level is 820feet.

It is hard to get good tools here since literally no one is doing his own work on AC systems. There are vacuum pumps for 100 bucks, 20 different brands but they all look like the same Chinese unit, and then there are pumps for 700 or more, for professional use. I guess I just bought shit, but I really donˋt want to buy equipment for 1000 bucks if I can’t even charge systems on my own in the future since we cannot buy refrigerant here. It’s only for leakcheck and putting a vacuum on the system to keep the accumulator from getting saturated.

So what are my choices now..
Wait 3 months and let the mechanic do everything, then the summer is over and weather is getting bad, car goes into storage.

I would rather repair the system and enjoy it for the rest of the summer. But I need some advise on how to do that.

Given the fact that I can not evacuate the system properly, what would I do after the flushing? I can push the fluid out with shop air and hope the rest will evaporate. Will it? I think so…I dropped a bit of the flush solvent on the floor and could watch it evaporate very quick.

But what about the accumulator..after installing it, how much time do I have to get the system evacuated?
Plan is to finish the system without the accumulator and install it on the day of the appointment with the AC shop just before driving there.

What are your suggestions in that case?
Thanks a lot!

[JohnHere]

I don't remember anymore, but why is R-134a so hard to get in Germany and probably also on The Continent in general? Over and above the shipping cost, can you order a 30-pound cylinder from someplace else? That sure would make working on this car's A/C system much easier, and the cylinder would last you forever.

[freakyhead94]

It is basically because a european law prohibits anyone from buying refrigerant without a license. Unfortunately I cannot get this license, because you are only allowed to take the test for it if you work in an HVAC company. So even if I would pass the test and know everything about ACs, law says nope. At the same time it is allowed for everyone to buy the hydrocarbon replacements, but you are then not allowed to usw them in a car, totally stupid. Of course, since you cant buy the real deal, more people buy the HC-stuff...

If I could get my hands on a 30lbs cylinder.....

As far as I know, I cant order it from anywhere. Inside the EU, every company has to check my license to sell me refrigerant. From outside the EU, customs will block the shipping. No way.

I am still trying to find a way...nobodys gonna know

[JohnHere]

It is basically because a european law prohibits anyone from buying refrigerant without a license. Unfortunately I cannot get this license, because you are only allowed to take the test for it if you work in an HVAC company. So even if I would pass the test and know everything about ACs, law says nope. At the same time it is allowed for everyone to buy the hydrocarbon replacements, but you are then not allowed to usw them in a car, totally stupid. Of course, since you cant buy the real deal, more people buy the HC-stuff...

Wow...just wow

If I could get my hands on a 30lbs cylinder.....

Here in the USA, a technician or private individual must hold a Certification under US-EPA Section 609 for MVAC to purchase any refrigerants in bulk, which requires passing a fairly involved exam. The smaller cans are still available to anyone, though, up to a certain limit, I believe.

As far as I know, I cant order it from anywhere. Inside the EU, every company has to check my license to sell me refrigerant. From outside the EU, customs will block the shipping. No way.

Esentially, you're facing a "Refrigerant Stone Wall." And yet, the law doesn't make any exceptions for the use of alternative hydrocarbon refrigerants in MVAC, either. Sounds like the powers-that-be want to eliminate all private purchases and use of refrigerants.

I won't belabor this particular discussion any longer because it is a bit off topic. But I wish you the best of luck in whatever you decide.

[freakyhead94]

After getting another, more expensive, vacuum pump (2 stage 9cfm pump and new gauge sets), vacuum got down to 27inhg. No leaks, vacuum was holding over night, but still not enough of course. I noticed the gauges were not perfectly at 0 without vacuum applied. I used the little screw to calibrate them but everytime they only reach 27inhg and after releasing the vacuum, they wont go to 0, so those measurements are junk again. Sent them back to the seller.

I am willing to give it a third try. I can get my hands on a Robinair 15501A-E-A2L R32 vacuum pump. Would you professionals consider this unit as suitable and good quality for the job?

Also looking for a good gauge set. Santech or the other brands you mentioned are nowhere available. Should I go for the simple brass version or the aluminium block in general? Any other details to consider when choosing a gauge set?

Thanks alot!

[tbirdtbird]

You are correct, 27 in Hg is not enough.
Can you get lower if you valve off the car and just pull a vac on the MGS?? How are you measuring vacuum? Surely not from the MSG where it will be very inaccurate.
Get your service equipment from the board sponsor, Tim, at ackits.com.
Tim has quality products at reasonable prices.
AC work nowadays requires quality equipment

[freakyhead94]

The 27inhg is what the gauge sets low pressure side was showing, not connected to the car. The cars AC is still full of refrigerant. Before doing any work on the car, I wanted to have a working, leakfree set of vacuum pump and gauge. It is leakfree as mentioned, but not enough vacuum.

Unfortunately ACKits does not ship to Germany, otherwise I would have ordered at least the gauges. For the vacuum pump I have to buy a local version, because the 110Volts US versions wont work with our 230V here.

[tbirdtbird]

Sorry forgot you were in Germany.
A pic of your gauge set (MGS) would help.
I find myself confused about just what your gauge is reading. Neither low or high gauge can read inches of mercury.(vacuum)
In the USA the units would be psi, a European gauge might read in Barr.
If your low side is reading 27 then I can only think of 2 things that are possible…..
1. The low side hose has retained 134 because of the shraders, or
2. The gauge itself is jacked up (wrong)