How well does a modern car's AC system work in a place like Death Valley?

[Tim]

This is the first I have heard of a Nissan product having AC that works well

Don't jinx my 1998 and 2004 4-cyinder Frontiers in Phoenix !!!

Taco's rule.

[tbirdtbird]

I was referring more to the more modern Nissan vehicles!
Sorry, Cusser, I know yours are cold!

[Carguychris85]

I was referring more to the more modern Nissan vehicles!
Sorry, Cusser, I know yours are cold!

Not sure which Nissan you are refering too here. The worst was the 2014 Sentra with a 6spd manual my brother had but even it worked well. They just had the a/c system and blower comprimised from maximum output to save fuel which I hated. Let off on the throttle to coast and it would give a large surge in cool air and the airflow volume from the vents would double. The 2007 G35, 2011 M56S, 2011 Pathfinder, 2012 Titan, 2014 Titan and 2019 Titan we have owned would all freeze you out.

[Cusser]

I was referring more to the more modern Nissan vehicles!
Sorry, Cusser, I know yours are cold!

Wow - how sad if the newer Nissan vehicles have substandard AC, that would seem that Nissan dropped the ball again (like their 2005-2010 Frontier/Xterra radiators that developed internal leak and would ruin both engine and transmission ...V6 engines with automatics only).

I would guess one could chalk up any technical steps backward to "modern" cost savings programs (my employer did cost savings on soaps, detergents, etc., every penny counted, and they didn't seem to care as much if they lost customers....

[Carguychris85]

I was referring more to the more modern Nissan vehicles!
Sorry, Cusser, I know yours are cold!

Wow - how sad if the newer Nissan vehicles have substandard AC, that would seem that Nissan dropped the ball again (like their 2005-2010 Frontier/Xterra radiators that developed internal leak and would ruin both engine and transmission ...V6 engines with automatics only).

I would guess one could chalk up any technical steps backward to "modern" cost savings programs (my employer did cost savings on soaps, detergents, etc., every penny counted, and they didn't seem to care as much if they lost customers....

I still put a Koyorad replacement radiator in my 2011 Pathfinder despite being the V8 model about 10 years ago when it was running out of the powertrain warranty. I did not want to take that chance. The V8 still used the V6 radiator.

[bohica2xo]

The difference between the temperature in Death Valley and Laughlin NV is usually about 3 degrees F. In the southwest from Las Vegas to Phoenix we see very high temperatures during summer. And some vehicle systems struggle more than others.

A lot depends on road speed and location. I was sitting in traffic recently and my car has great instruments. The IAT - intake air temperature had crept up to 165F and the CHT was 230f Stop & go traffic on a crowded 4 lanes of road. Safe to say the air over the condenser was close to my IAT. The A/C system was keeping the interior cool, but at idle running on recirculation was necessary.

The same vehicle on the highway at 75 mph on the same day an hour later was showing 112 IAT, 198 CHT. Outside air was 111 F

So at idle in Death Valley your condenser will be producing some very hot liquid. Cooling a car that was parked in the sun for 3 hours will be difficult. Get the road speed up if you can.

[Cusser]

bohica2xo - I'm in Las Vegas RIGHT NOW - my oldest daughter is getting married here this afternoon! And it is really hot here, pretty much like Phoenix!

We walked from the hotel to a restaurant across Paradise last for dinner in the heat; of course, it was closed for renovations so we walked back and ate in the hotel. I have the Midas Touch - everything turns into mufflers !!!

[Carguychris85]

Accidental double post attempting to edit for more information.

[Carguychris85]

The difference between the temperature in Death Valley and Laughlin NV is usually about 3 degrees F. In the southwest from Las Vegas to Phoenix we see very high temperatures during summer. And some vehicle systems struggle more than others.

A lot depends on road speed and location. I was sitting in traffic recently and my car has great instruments. The IAT - intake air temperature had crept up to 165F and the CHT was 230f Stop & go traffic on a crowded 4 lanes of road. Safe to say the air over the condenser was close to my IAT. The A/C system was keeping the interior cool, but at idle running on recirculation was necessary.

The same vehicle on the highway at 75 mph on the same day an hour later was showing 112 IAT, 198 CHT. Outside air was 111 F

So at idle in Death Valley your condenser will be producing some very hot liquid. Cooling a car that was parked in the sun for 3 hours will be difficult. Get the road speed up if you can.

Your IAT is heat soaking. The condenser intake air is nowhere near 165F or your a/c would not be working at all. The headpressure would probably be close to 500 psi or more and the system would be cutting off on the high pressure cutout constantly.

I have a sensor right in front of my condenser for the GM Compass/Temperature mirror in my Express van. I have seen 115-125F in stop and go traffic congestion and it only drop a few degrees at 80-85 mph. My IATs will hit 200F in stop and go and drop to near the same reading as the mirror displays after a couple of miles of driving. Given where the engine airbox inlet is on an Express, it is accurate. The Express draws hot underhood air into the air box from the factory for some unknown and absolutely dumb reason.

https://youtube.com/shorts/UskzBgq-ud8? ... tNzPCOeuPk

When I start the engine and it is 110F outside, interior of the vehicle over 140F, it only takes a couple of minutes for the air to be 60F or less. I roll down the windows, use outside air to blow out the heat, then after a block or so, roll the windows up to where they have a 2" crack on both sides, then as the heat dissapates, switch to recirculate and close the windows. It is the quickest, most effective way to cool a vehicle. Alternatively if I have a car with a moonroof, I open the rear of it during the initial driving and leave it open until the interior cools down and I switch to recirculate.

That is my normal method, starts cooling very quickly. This was completely stationary on a 108F day after in the sun for hours, ac system on outside air intake. I became a bit tongue tied trying to say, "It is 108 farenheit already here today" too quickly. Here in Texas summer heat I do not use the GM White 0.071" orifice tube even in factory R134a systems. I used the Ford Red or GM Yellow 0.062" tube depending on if it is inline or condenser mounter. I feel like GM made an engineering error using the 0.071" tube in high heat and high humidity areas. They also made a bigger error not using the electric pusher condenser fan on all trucks, SUVs and vans with a clutch fan. The pusher fan provides added airflow to the condenser before the engine warms up enough to allow the clutch fan to properly engage.

https://youtu.be/BfINZvz6Uh4?si=T1HGbkXos6dBT2sD

[Carguychris85]

It is not crazy hot here yet, but I was driving around the 1987 G20 today in ~100F and about ~45% relative humdity. It was muggy and hot feeling. I brought out my thermometer and hygrometer and measured the ambient air conditions as the readings above. Brought the engine up to 2,000 rpm per the GM performance test detailed in the FSM and center vent temps dropped to around 30F before the compressor cycled even with high blower speed selected. I knocked off the recirculate function, warmed up to 42F and held steady there. It is cooling fantastically well. So much for the theory you have to run R12 to have ice cold air in the R12 era vehicles.

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