98 civic not cooling w/ high press temp

[Bugman1400]

Looks like it’s a Sanden.
Ordered OEM TXV, bulb clamp, and wrap and R/D. Will measure what comes out of all components before I flush.

Thanks guys.

[JohnHere]

Okay...it's a scroll compressor. When you drain it, examine whatever oil comes out for signs of metallic particles.

[Bugman1400]

Ok..I removed evap and txv. Then I removed txv from evap and solvent flushed evap. I then replaced txv and used a SS hose clamp to mount sensing bulb in same spot. I then removed condenser and solvent flushed. I then removed r/d and solvent flushed all hoses and lines. I then replaced r/d. All o-rings were replaced after soaked in PAG-46.
I then removed compressor and placed it upside down to drain PAG, but only 2 tablespoons have come out. I originally thought system had too much oil, but perhaps it had too little.
Once I flush compressor with PAG and drain, how much residual PAG remains? Do I add back all 5oz of PAG? Is it..
1oz - evap
1oz - condenser
1oz? - r/d
2oz? - compressor

[JohnHere]

Ok..I removed evap and txv. Then I removed txv from evap and solvent flushed evap. I then replaced txv and used a SS hose clamp to mount sensing bulb in same spot.

Sounds good. But among the new parts, did you get the special clip for the TXV sensing bulb? I think that would be preferred over the SS hose clamp. And of course the Prestite tape would be installed securely over all of that.

I then removed condenser and solvent flushed. I then removed r/d and solvent flushed all hoses and lines. I then replaced r/d. All o-rings were replaced after soaked in PAG-46.

Also sounds good with the caveat that all traces of the solvent were blown out and evaporated from the flushed components.

I then removed compressor and placed it upside down to drain PAG, but only 2 tablespoons have come out. I originally thought system had too much oil, but perhaps it had too little.
Once I flush compressor with PAG and drain, how much residual PAG remains? Do I add back all 5oz of PAG?

Best way is to rotate the shaft by hand and move the compressor around a bit while holding the ports upside down to ensure all the old oil comes out. You could also let the inverted compressor set in a drain pan for a while to be certain. Did you happen to notice any metallic debris in the little bit of oil that did come out?

There should be virtually no measurable oil left in the compressor after you drain it. So yes, I would put back the full 5-ounce amount.

Is it..
1oz - evap
1oz - condenser
1oz? - r/d
2oz? - compressor

I would change the oil distribution slightly by putting 1/2-ounce in the R/D and 2-1/2 ounces in the compressor. But I think the other amounts that you mention are fine.

[Tim]

My opinion is Four Siezens is not reputable, aftermarket new compressors are OK. For my money, I'd take a low mileage junkyard original compressor before I'd take a "rebuilt". I've seen what it takes to build a proper compressor, and I can't believe "rebuilt" compressors sell as well as they do, but I guess stop-leak does OK too, so it shouldn't be too surprising.

And people complain about "new" china knock-offs and will buy a resealed compressor.

[Bugman1400]

Ok..I removed evap and txv. Then I removed txv from evap and solvent flushed evap. I then replaced txv and used a SS hose clamp to mount sensing bulb in same spot.

Sounds good. But among the new parts, did you get the special clip for the TXV sensing bulb? I think that would be preferred over the SS hose clamp. And of course the Prestite tape would be installed securely over all of that.

I then removed condenser and solvent flushed. I then removed r/d and solvent flushed all hoses and lines. I then replaced r/d. All o-rings were replaced after soaked in PAG-46.

Also sounds good with the caveat that all traces of the solvent were blown out and evaporated from the flushed components.

I then removed compressor and placed it upside down to drain PAG, but only 2 tablespoons have come out. I originally thought system had too much oil, but perhaps it had too little.
Once I flush compressor with PAG and drain, how much residual PAG remains? Do I add back all 5oz of PAG?

Best way is to rotate the shaft by hand and move the compressor around a bit while holding the ports upside down to ensure all the old oil comes out. You could also let the inverted compressor set in a drain pan for a while to be certain. Did you happen to notice any metallic debris in the little bit of oil that did come out?

There should be virtually no measurable oil left in the compressor after you drain it. So yes, I would put back the full 5-ounce amount.

Is it..
1oz - evap
1oz - condenser
1oz? - r/d
2oz? - compressor

I would change the oil distribution slightly by putting 1/2-ounce in the R/D and 2-1/2 ounces in the compressor. But I think the other amounts that you mention are fine.

I saw no metal flakes from the compressor so, I assume that is good news.

One question remains, is it typical for 2.5oz of PAG to drain out of the compressor for a normal system? Mine only had a tablespoon or so. Wanted to make sure excess oil wouldn’t damage the compressor.

Also, what is the consensus on flushing solvent? I bought some in 32oz cans that I could tell had a low flash point and evaporated easily with no residue, but I ran out. I then went to a local auto store and bought a quart of flush cleaner that said it’s solvent based, but it has an orange smell and seems like it doesn’t evaporates easily and may leave a film.

[tbirdtbird]

Solvent based with orange odor doesn't sound very good to me. At all.

I'd go to an automotive paint store and get a gallon or two of 'wax and grease remover' which is naptha. Very low flash point, and no residue. It is the last chemical applied to a car before it is re-painted and has to be residue-free