2007 Civic - Warm Air, New Parts, Good Pressures

[JohnHere]

Charts can be somewhat deceiving. At an 80-degree ambient (one foot in front of the grill), the high side should be around 185 PSI with the compressor and fans running and good airflow over the condenser. The low side should be around 30 PSI, which corresponds to an evaporator temperature of a few degrees above freezing.

Measuring the pressures should be done at an engine speed of about 1,800 RPM, compressor/clutch engaged, windows and doors open, A/C on maximum, blower on high, and the under-hood fans spinning at a good clip.

[charliekeller]

sorry did or did not wording is awry

it did list there was sealant

[charliekeller]

How did you arrive at that oil charge? ...The sticker under the hood states that amount by weight

There was some confusion about measurement of refrigeration oil a couple of days ago in another topic. Oil specs are in fluid ounces or milliliters, not ounces of weight. That said, my references for your car specify 5.5 fluid ounces (163 milliliters) of PAG-46. You mentioned earlier that you put in 80 milliliters of oil. Was that a typo?

here's my source for pag oil qty...
http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/ ... BAT00.HTML

That source lines up with you at 155ml. I'm either remembering my number wrong, or I didn't add that up right the first time. I'll have to check my notes when I get home. If I am that low, I'm sure that isn't a good thing.

[tbirdtbird]

JohnHere, since the ACPro can he used did have sealant after all, and he has replaced everything but the hoses and evap, what would your approach be?
Replace hoses and evap?

[JohnHere]

JohnHere, since the ACPro can he used did have sealant after all, and he has replaced everything but the hoses and evap, what would your approach be?
Replace hoses and evap?

Sealer sets up and hardens after it's introduced into a system, and it can't be flushed out once it does. Not only can it clog components but it also acts as an insulator, coating the inside of heat exchangers and reducing their effectiveness. If hoses containing hardened sealer are flexed, particles of the sealer can flake off internally. If it were mine, I would want to remove all of that material from the system right away. So in addition to the other components already replaced, I would have changed the evaporator, along with the hoses and lines, all at the same time.

[charliekeller]

JohnHere, since the ACPro can he used did have sealant after all, and he has replaced everything but the hoses and evap, what would your approach be?
Replace hoses and evap?

Sealer sets up and hardens after it's introduced into a system, and it can't be flushed out once it does. Not only can it clog components but it also acts as an insulator, coating the inside of heat exchangers and reducing their effectiveness. If hoses containing hardened sealer are flexed, particles of the sealer can flake off internally. If it were mine, I would want to remove all of that material from the system right away. So in addition to the other components already replaced, I would have changed the evaporator, along with the hoses and lines, all at the same time.

With that in mind and since my problem seems to be intermittent, is it likely i have some junk floating around that is occasionally clogging the expansion valve or lines? Today (and yesterday evening), my car has no problem getting the outlet temperature down to the low 40's.

If so, I would think replacing the core and lines and rectifying any issues with my pag oil amount I may have, is the direction I need to go.

Is there any concern I should replace the dryer or flush the condenser (if it can be).

[charliekeller]

I would plan to flush the expansion valve too.