flushing method
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flushing method
yes of course I am new !!
led me on to a course of action, 69 El Camino SS ZZ502 EFI with Factory Air set up has been down 2 years setting no run at all, engine up now and running car almost ready to drive, no charge in it for the 2 years. System has the following mods and new items , Pro A610 compressor. new Braided hoses new fittings, flushed condenser parallels type, new Evaporator, new Exchanger, new Expansion valve, is converted to 134A. What will be the suggestion for flush and then charge it is presently all together ready to evac. and charge but decided to ask best way or needed way.
TY in advance for the help
Jay
led me on to a course of action, 69 El Camino SS ZZ502 EFI with Factory Air set up has been down 2 years setting no run at all, engine up now and running car almost ready to drive, no charge in it for the 2 years. System has the following mods and new items , Pro A610 compressor. new Braided hoses new fittings, flushed condenser parallels type, new Evaporator, new Exchanger, new Expansion valve, is converted to 134A. What will be the suggestion for flush and then charge it is presently all together ready to evac. and charge but decided to ask best way or needed way.
TY in advance for the help
Jay
Re: flushing method
You stated you already flushed the condenser, is that true?
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Re: flushing method
yes it had to be pressure tested after straightening from an accident.
Re: flushing method
Flushing and pressure testing are not the same procedure.
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- JohnHere
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Re: flushing method
I'm guessing that the original condenser is holding pressure and is serviceable then?
Was the A/C system sealed and not open to the atmosphere during the two years the Elky didn't run? If so, you shouldn't have to flush any of the other components. If it WAS setting open for all that time, then I would definitely flush everything. PAG oil, if not the double-end-capped variety (DEC-PAG), is highly hygroscopic and would have absorbed considerable moisture during that time, meaning you'd have to thoroughly clean out all the old contaminated oil by solvent-flushing.
Of course, you shouldn't solvent-flush the compressor, any hoses with mufflers, the POA valve, or the R/D/accumulator. The compressor should be drained and flushed a few times only with the appropriate PAG oil, any lines with mufflers should be replaced, as should the R/D or accumulator. Depending on the POA valves condition, you might want to send that out for a professional rebuilding and re-calibration. Then refill with the correct amount of new PAG oil.
My sources say to refer to the under-hood decal for the proper amount. But guessing, I'd say it probably takes around 10 ounces of oil. Put the majority of that in the new compressor, one ounce each in the condenser and evaporator, and 1/2-ounce in the R/D or accumulator. Then evacuate well and recharge to about 80-percent of the original R-12 amount.
If it WASN'T setting open, I would drain, measure, and refill the compressor with the same amount of fresh PAG, preferably DEC-PAG, distribute the rest of the oil as described, evacuate, and recharge as above.
Was the A/C system sealed and not open to the atmosphere during the two years the Elky didn't run? If so, you shouldn't have to flush any of the other components. If it WAS setting open for all that time, then I would definitely flush everything. PAG oil, if not the double-end-capped variety (DEC-PAG), is highly hygroscopic and would have absorbed considerable moisture during that time, meaning you'd have to thoroughly clean out all the old contaminated oil by solvent-flushing.
Of course, you shouldn't solvent-flush the compressor, any hoses with mufflers, the POA valve, or the R/D/accumulator. The compressor should be drained and flushed a few times only with the appropriate PAG oil, any lines with mufflers should be replaced, as should the R/D or accumulator. Depending on the POA valves condition, you might want to send that out for a professional rebuilding and re-calibration. Then refill with the correct amount of new PAG oil.
My sources say to refer to the under-hood decal for the proper amount. But guessing, I'd say it probably takes around 10 ounces of oil. Put the majority of that in the new compressor, one ounce each in the condenser and evaporator, and 1/2-ounce in the R/D or accumulator. Then evacuate well and recharge to about 80-percent of the original R-12 amount.
If it WASN'T setting open, I would drain, measure, and refill the compressor with the same amount of fresh PAG, preferably DEC-PAG, distribute the rest of the oil as described, evacuate, and recharge as above.
Member – MACS (Mobile Air Climate Systems Association)
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Re: flushing method
sorry did both pressure and solvent but the solvent was a pretty quick through just once ?"?
Re: flushing method
I got from what was said I should do the following
1) drain compressor and flush several times with proper PAG oil, which is correct an Old Air"Pro6Ten"
2) all new items need not be flushed
3) POA looked at? it was 2 years old when I plugged it and tape up for the 2 years
1) drain compressor and flush several times with proper PAG oil, which is correct an Old Air"Pro6Ten"
2) all new items need not be flushed
3) POA looked at? it was 2 years old when I plugged it and tape up for the 2 years
- JohnHere
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Re: flushing method
To clarify, if the system wasn't setting open for the two years, I would:Jay wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 2:44 pm I got from what was said I should do the following
1) drain compressor and flush several times with proper PAG oil, which is correct an Old Air"Pro6Ten"
2) all new items need not be flushed
3) POA looked at? it was 2 years old when I plugged it and tape up for the 2 years
1. Drain the oil from the new compressor (only once) and refill it with the correct amount and grade of PAG.
2. All new items need not be flushed -- you are correct.
3. The POA should be fine since you had sealed it up prior to the two years that it was stored.
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Re: flushing method
John TY for the help, I have not found what is the proper oil and capacity for the compressor Pro6Ten, A6 copy, using 134A I have look but not in the specs I looked at.
- JohnHere
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Re: flushing method
I can't find that oil spec, either. But I would bet it holds the same amount as the GM A-6...10-11 ounces.
You could try calling Old Air for that info. Or, if the system isn't charged yet and you want to go to the trouble, take off the compressor and pour out/measure the oil it contains.
In addition to that amount, I would add a couple more ounces to the system, distributing it to the condenser, evaporator, and R/D.
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