2004 honda Accord low/high sides same preasure

[Carrillotj]

Hello new the the site,

The issue I am having is the following.

The AC stopped blow cold air, took it to a shop they said it was a Condenser leak but, they recommended replacing the whole system. if not i could do "OK' with just the condenser replacement.
Was not convinced with their response since the system had dye in it I and I had already checked for leaks. no dye came out.
So I recharged the system added oil too. (did not have a/c gauges yet, used the Ac pro can gauge only filled to about 32 psi@72°F on the low side)
the car was ok for a couple of weeks but I did notice I hissing sound. the blow valve on the compressor was opening so I guess I over filled it.
the car is not blowing cold air anymore even though the compressor is still activating(the clutch is engaging).
finally go a set of gauges.

Car turned OFF
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 89
high side 95

an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 95
high side 90

Also I noticed melted plastic in the A/C compressor pully I think it is from the Clutch but it is still turning ON.
(plan to replace it) but want to get the las bit of life out of it to diagnose my problem.

thank you.

AC ON

acON.jpg (87.68 KiB) Viewed 6511 times

ACoff

acoffcarON.jpg (112.65 KiB) Viewed 6511 times

[Tim]

The compressor seems to be dead. WHat eng and is this an American market vehicle?

[JohnHere]

The AC stopped blow cold air, took it to a shop they said it was a Condenser leak but, they recommended replacing the whole system. if not i could do "OK' with just the condenser replacement.
Was not convinced with their response since the system had dye in it I and I had already checked for leaks. no dye came out.

Did the car suffer any recent front-end collision damage? Regardless, did you CAREFULLY check the condenser for leaks? Bear in mind that you need to check it in a darkened room using a UV light and a special pair of glasses for the dye to glow brightly. Otherwise, it's possible that you might not see any dye, especially if the leak is small.

So I recharged the system added oil too. (did not have a/c gauges yet, used the Ac pro can gauge only filled to about 32 psi@72°F on the low side). The car was ok for a couple of weeks but I did notice I hissing sound. the blow valve on the compressor was opening so I guess I over filled it. the car is not blowing cold air anymore even though the compressor is still activating(the clutch is engaging).

The product you mentioned likely did more harm than good. Sounds like you overcharged the system because the HPRV discharged. As well, you introduced more oil, which it probably didn't need, and possibly sealer, which can badly clog-up a system. Check the instructions on the can to see whether sealer is mentioned.

finally go a set of gauges.
Car turned OFF
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 89
high side 95
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 95
high side 90
Also I noticed melted plastic in the A/C compressor pully I think it is from the Clutch but it is still turning ON.
(plan to replace it) but want to get the las bit of life out of it to diagnose my problem.

This part of your post is somewhat confusing in that the car is turned off yet still running at 2,000 RPM. Probably a typo. So for our purposes, let's presume that the clutch is defective and isn't actually engaging, that the compressor itself isn't running and is dead (due either to internal or external causes) as Tim suggested earlier, and that you're currently reading only static pressures.

Given all of the above, I would approach this by recovering the charge (although many shops won't risk damage to their equipment if sealer is present in the system...again, check the can), evacuating, and recharging to spec (if the compressor will run, that is). That's the only way the gauge readings will mean anything for diagnostic purposes. If sealer WAS introduced into the system, and/or the clutch won't engage, and neither will the compressor, then you'll have to replace everything anyway and start from scratch.

For reference, your car in the USA calls for 19.0 ounces of R-134a and 5.5 ounces of PAG-46.

[Carrillotj]

The compressor seems to be dead. WHat eng and is this an American market vehicle?

4 cylender and ye it is us vehicle,

[Carrillotj]

The AC stopped blow cold air, took it to a shop they said it was a Condenser leak but, they recommended replacing the whole system. if not i could do "OK' with just the condenser replacement.
Was not convinced with their response since the system had dye in it I and I had already checked for leaks. no dye came out.

Did the car suffer any recent front-end collision damage? Regardless, did you CAREFULLY check the condenser for leaks? Bear in mind that you need to check it in a darkened room using a UV light and a special pair of glasses for the dye to glow brightly. Otherwise, it's possible that you might not see any dye, especially if the leak is small.

So I recharged the system added oil too. (did not have a/c gauges yet, used the Ac pro can gauge only filled to about 32 psi@72°F on the low side). The car was ok for a couple of weeks but I did notice I hissing sound. the blow valve on the compressor was opening so I guess I over filled it. the car is not blowing cold air anymore even though the compressor is still activating(the clutch is engaging).

The product you mentioned likely did more harm than good. Sounds like you overcharged the system because the HPRV discharged. As well, you introduced more oil, which it probably didn't need, and possibly sealer, which can badly clog-up a system. Check the instructions on the can to see whether sealer is mentioned.

finally go a set of gauges.
Car turned OFF
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 89
high side 95
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 95
high side 90
Also I noticed melted plastic in the A/C compressor pully I think it is from the Clutch but it is still turning ON.
(plan to replace it) but want to get the las bit of life out of it to diagnose my problem.

This part of your post is somewhat confusing in that the car is turned off yet still running at 2,000 RPM. Probably a typo. So for our purposes, let's presume that the clutch is defective and isn't actually engaging, that the compressor itself isn't running and is dead (due either to internal or external causes) as Tim suggested earlier, and that you're currently reading only static pressures.

Given all of the above, I would approach this by recovering the charge (although many shops won't risk damage to their equipment if sealer is present in the system...again, check the can), evacuating, and recharging to spec (if the compressor will run, that is). That's the only way the gauge readings will mean anything for diagnostic purposes. If sealer WAS introduced into the system, and/or the clutch won't engage, and neither will the compressor, then you'll have to replace everything anyway and start from scratch.

For reference, your car in the USA calls for 19.0 ounces of R-134a and 5.5 ounces of PAG-46.

forgot to remove the rpm bu the car was off, on the pictures the car is running, the A/C is what I turned ON in one of them

[Carrillotj]

The AC stopped blow cold air, took it to a shop they said it was a Condenser leak but, they recommended replacing the whole system. if not i could do "OK' with just the condenser replacement.
Was not convinced with their response since the system had dye in it I and I had already checked for leaks. no dye came out.

Did the car suffer any recent front-end collision damage? Regardless, did you CAREFULLY check the condenser for leaks? Bear in mind that you need to check it in a darkened room using a UV light and a special pair of glasses for the dye to glow brightly. Otherwise, it's possible that you might not see any dye, especially if the leak is small.

So I recharged the system added oil too. (did not have a/c gauges yet, used the Ac pro can gauge only filled to about 32 psi@72°F on the low side). The car was ok for a couple of weeks but I did notice I hissing sound. the blow valve on the compressor was opening so I guess I over filled it. the car is not blowing cold air anymore even though the compressor is still activating(the clutch is engaging).

The product you mentioned likely did more harm than good. Sounds like you overcharged the system because the HPRV discharged. As well, you introduced more oil, which it probably didn't need, and possibly sealer, which can badly clog-up a system. Check the instructions on the can to see whether sealer is mentioned.

finally go a set of gauges.
Car turned OFF
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 89
high side 95
an this are the pleasures at 85°F and car @2000rpm
low side 95
high side 90
Also I noticed melted plastic in the A/C compressor pully I think it is from the Clutch but it is still turning ON.
(plan to replace it) but want to get the las bit of life out of it to diagnose my problem.

This part of your post is somewhat confusing in that the car is turned off yet still running at 2,000 RPM. Probably a typo. So for our purposes, let's presume that the clutch is defective and isn't actually engaging, that the compressor itself isn't running and is dead (due either to internal or external causes) as Tim suggested earlier, and that you're currently reading only static pressures.

Given all of the above, I would approach this by recovering the charge (although many shops won't risk damage to their equipment if sealer is present in the system...again, check the can), evacuating, and recharging to spec (if the compressor will run, that is). That's the only way the gauge readings will mean anything for diagnostic purposes. If sealer WAS introduced into the system, and/or the clutch won't engage, and neither will the compressor, then you'll have to replace everything anyway and start from scratch.

For reference, your car in the USA calls for 19.0 ounces of R-134a and 5.5 ounces of PAG-46.

forgot to remove the rpm bu the car was off, on the pictures the car is running, the A/C is what I turned ON in one of them

the oil is PAG 46 no sealer added and the

oil pag46

Screenshot 2021-04-22 194632.jpg (33.63 KiB) Viewed 6483 times

[JohnHere]

Glad to learn that no sealer was added.

The three-ounce oil charge might be okay depending on how much oil was lost when the HPRV discharged some refrigerant (and oil). But that's pure guesswork. It's always better to have a little too much oil, within reason, than not enough. From what I've read, Ice 32 is relatively benign and should be okay.

I would say again that your best option at this point is to recover, evacuate, recharge to spec, and then check pressures, center vent temps, and monitor how the system operates on the road. You'll need to have the correct refrigerant charge before any testing can be done.

[Carrillotj]

Thank you all for the replies

Will start looking around for shops and get some quotes,

--Gues i'll just head to Harbor-Freight and return my gauges

[JohnHere]

Mobile Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) often is very tricky, difficult to diagnose, and challenging to work on even for experienced techs having extensive knowledge and all the right tools. I think your idea to take it to a reputable MVAC shop is a good one. They'll be able to tell you what needs to be done and what it will cost. Then decide from there. Good shops will offer a warranty on their work as well.

From what you said, I'm not sure whether the first shop can help you. I could be wrong, though. Depends on whether you've used them before and your overall confidence level in their abilities, among other things.

Now is a great time to get it repaired before summer arrives. Let us know how it turns out.

[Tim]

Most modern oil companies will already use an oil enhancer. Ice32 is just another enhancer, IMO. I give them credit. They have sold a lot of product.