V5 control valve

[dj44]

Is it possible to replace the control valve on a V5 compressor while it is still on the vehicle (assuming the system has no pressure first)? It is held in by a snap ring on the very bottom which you can easily see and get to without even raising the car. Stick your head under the front bumper - as I did this morning - and there it is. I am thinking about gambling that is where my leak is coming from. I went under there this morning in preparation for adding dye. The bottom of the compressor was so covered with thick black gunk that I wanted to see if I could clean it off so that if I do get the point where I have added dye, that I would be able to see it down under there. I am still hoping it is schrader valve but I am trying to plan ahead. I know not to try it with any pressure since I don't want it to take my eye out like a bullet.

The car is a 2001 Cavalier 2.2. I am getting nothing but hot air. The compressor is running, clutch engages, no unusual noises. I don't know the psi values yet on the high or low sides.

[Dgreen]

Look closely at the compressor where the case halves meet. I think it’s pretty common for them to leak there too. If the system is empty, you should be able to change the valve. I changed one on a Buick LaCrosse a few days ago. System was empty except for a little pressure in the compressor. The valve came out quite forcefully once I got it broke lose.

[Tim]

The system has to be empty and the o-ring makes the valve feel like it is stuck. You must remove the snap ring.

[GM Tech]

I've never seen the control valve leak-- always the case halves (belly leaker) scenario. Corrosion crawls up and under the cylinder halves o-rings and cause the leak. I take the compressor apart, sand down the corroded area and put new o-rings in, and have never had a comeback.

[Dougflas]

X2 what GM said. I have used Nylog on the o rings before reass'y. But I have had a couple not work and used a replacement.

[dj44]

Maybe I am mistaken and the leak is coming from where the halves meet and it just collects in the area near the control valve. Is there a place in North Carolina - Raleigh area or even Charlotte area - that would be a good place to have the seals replaced if that is what I need? My experience with what I have been told and read online is that everybody says I need a new compressor rather than repairing anything that is wrong with a leaking or failing one. How much would/should it cost to repair the seals on a leaking compressor compared to replacing everything? I have not been able to find any auto AC specialists/shops in the whole state. I live in Raleigh but am on a trip north of Charlotte right now.

[Tim]

New OEM Replacement, not china.

https://www.ackits.com/index.php?route= ... t_id=56417

[Dougflas]

That is an excellent price on a new compressor.

[Tim]

That is an excellent price on a new compressor.

Have a new website in the works. Was supposed to be ready to go March 1st. The developer is way behind. But I have a new item number and prices.