Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

I'm not an AC professional, but good-working systems do not continuously build up high side pressure until the high pressure switch cuts off the voltage to the AC compressor. The high pressure reading will stabilize depending upon several factors, including ambient temperature, air flow over the ...

Flame Red wrote: Wed Feb 12, 2025 9:25 am I am well practiced now at replacing compressors and can do it record time

The goal is to do a job correctly, not in record time. You seem to be learning this.

Yes, that is a good time to add dye, add how much UV dye the label states, then add refrigerant oil to make up to that 1.5 oz. Then rotate the compressor drive plate about 10 revolutions by hand/wrench once it's all bolted up connected.

When my 1998 Frontier experienced similar symptoms about 2019, I tested it and found that when it wasn't cooling, the compressor clutch was not engaged but was getting voltage. For me the fix was to remove an AC clutch shim. Took me 30 minutes, didn't even need to remove my AC belt; and AC works ...

Cooling is achieved when the refrigerant changes from a liquid to gas form in the evaporator. Since the refrigerant is already in the gaseous phase in the evaporator, so a second evaporator in series would seem to be useless. At least that's how I understand things.

I'm not an AC professional.

I don't like the noise.

If mine, I'd use chalk or paint, and make a line on the drive plate (center part) and on the pulley edge to try if I could determine that the AC clutch is slipping sometime.

When the AC clutch slipped on my Frontier, it didn't make noise, the ...

Agree, one must use the special AC O-rings, typically green NBR.

Hardware store O-rings are for water, not refrigerant or automotive fluids.

The first thing to check is whether you have the correct amount of refrigerant in the system, which would require recovering and weighing it. A professional shop having a Recover/Recycle/Recharge (RRR) machine will be able to tell you that, as long as you don't have any alternative refrigerants ...

the stop leak....Well, I've vacuumed it about 3 times now so maybe it's mostly gone?

No, it's still in the system. But maybe you'll be lucky.

Likely your 2013 just lost a little R134a over time. The right thing to do first thing - would've been to have a shop evacuate the refrigerant and weigh ...

Zardiw wrote: Thu Oct 10, 2024 3:31 pm Also when this first stated I added a can of stop leak....fwiw

NOT GOOD !!!