I think this is the picture.

The shims would be on the end of the shaft by the threads where the rust is or still inside the hub that has already been removed. What are you trying to do, decrease the air gap? Maybe there is a terminology issue and we are talking about different things.

Cool project, that is something I have wanted to do for almost 20 years and have not yet. But I have a 327 to use. That being said, I like to keep most things stock, so would just leave the R4 if it was working. Bigger question, what refrigerant do you plan on using? If R12, everything else should b...

Info on what type of vehicle would be helpful (year, make, model, etc). But typically the amounts don't change much unless with the old tube and fin condenser the vehicle used R12 and now it has R134 in it.

BBC...big block chevy? He did say it was a 350 being switched out to a 454.

The compressor should be fine, the condenser may need to be changed to a parallel flow type depending on what was there. It sounds like the system has been apart for a while. If it was mine, and nothing was leaking when I took it apart, I would flush the system, replace all the O-rings and keep it r...

I replaced a compressor on a caravan once that had be removed and a bypass put in a couple of years before. Same thing, it would not come on. Fuse/relay were good, wiring all liked good, just no power to the compressor. I would have to look it up again, but there is a way to run the control head thr...

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does it easily turn by hand? Like with just a couple of fingers or does it take a bit of work to turn it?

I don't know why, but I am always bothered when someone thinks there is a problem just because a compressor is not cycling. If the high side is not too high, low side is not too low, and evap is not too cold, why would or should a system cycle off and on? Trying to get the pressure low enough to cyc...